Archive | Celebrity Chefs RSS feed for this section

Chicago, IL: Alinea (A New #1?)

10 Jan

2013 was an amazing year… After all, Mike and I got married and we took an amazing honeymoon, including a dinner at THE French Laundry.

So how do you close out such a year?

For us, it was by going to the restaurant on the very top of my bucket list: Alinea.

Alinea hit my radar after I was looking for a new food-centered book to read and someone recommended Life, On The Line by Chef Grant Achatz.  I had no idea what I was getting into when I downloaded that book, but I found myself loving every moment while reading about Chef Achatz’s adventures in food, getting jobs in food, and creating a whole new world of food… and I cried as I read about his hardship as he faced a battle that no one should have to face, let alone a CHEF, when he was diagnosed with tongue cancer.  I left that book inspired… and hungry.

But Alinea is in Chicago, and while one of my very best friends lived there, it wasn’t on the home turf.  So when Mike and I found ourselves with a few extra days off on our hands, and a few extra travel points, I looked at the Alinea reservation site just for fun. And low and behold, a single reservation was open for 9:15pm on Sunday, December 29.  We booked our flights and made it happen.

Now Alinea is an expensive meal.  Like a once-in-a-lifetime expensive meal. Luckily, we have had the fortune of eating at a few once-in-a-lifetime places and I will feel forever blessed for the experience.  But this was a chef’s tasting menu that I couldn’t wait to try.  You buy the ticket (which includes gratuity) in advance and pay in full and then you can add drinks or a wine pairing and extras when you get there.

We decided to split one wine pairing (after a few instances of having the end of the meal get VERY blurry when trying to have my own wine pairing) and opted OUT of the $125 supplement PER PERSON for the white truffle risotto.  Though Mike wistfully said “some day” about the risotto.  Some day.  (While the meal itself was quite the dent in our life savings, spending $125 twice on a single plate of food just felt a bit over-indulgent)  Some day.

Our first wine pairing, the somm was nice enough to each give us a glass.  This was a Champagne Laherte Freres ‘Ultradition’ Brut Rose NV.  I usually don’t enjoy rose, but this was a fantastic sparkly way to begin our evening.

IMG_5184

 

And we were given a silverware pillow which we were requested to “keep clean throughout the meal” by putting used utensils in our bowls or on the table. A fine and lovely touch that made this meal feel just a little more special (as if it could feel more special).

IMG_5187

First dish: “Char Roe – banana, ginger, passion fruit”

This was Arctic Char roe (fish eggs) with a froth of banana, ginger, and passion fruit.  The salty fish eggs really popped (literally and figuratively) against the froth.  It woke up my palate.

 

IMG_5185

And then… there was a black mat.

IMG_5188

And we watched as our smoking (is it called smoke when it’s dry ice?) dish came out.

IMG_5189

And was placed on the mat.

IMG_5190

And then the top was removed.

IMG_5191

And we were then instructed to remove the top shell to reveal…

IMG_5194

… “Scallop – citrus aroma, fourteen textures”

IMG_5200

Yes. Yes Yes Yes.  I didn’t know that this was called “fourteen textures” when I was eating it, but I remember recognizing as we ate it that the texture profile far surpassed anything I’ve tasted.  The aromas and the scallop and the textures and the smoke and the presentation.

Wow. Just wow.

(This was paired with a Selbach-Oster ‘Zeltinger Sonnenuhr’ Riesling Kabinet, Mosel 2011.  Excellent compliment)

IMG_5199

And then… there was this…  coals on top of slate?

IMG_5201

And then they lit it on fire.

IMG_5202

 

Until it was like our own little roaring fireplace.

IMG_5203

And then left it there for an entire course as it smoked and filled our table with the most amazing aroma.

IMG_5209

We let that burn while we went onto the next dish: “Dungeness Crab – squash blossom, cardamon, saffron.” (paired with Saint-Aubin ‘Les Murgers des Dents de Chines’ Hubert Lamy 2009.)

This was just absolutely beautiful in every way.

IMG_5218

The squash blossom leaf was spread out and then… I have no idea… dried? into this transparent work of art.  It was one of the most gorgeous things I’ve ever eaten and it tasted as beautiful and delicate as it looked.  The crab flavor with the other flavors and the textures of crunch, liquid, cotton candy, gel… gosh… it was all so beautiful.

IMG_5216

And under the plate was a scented salt (I think) that shows that they care about every detail, even the hidden ones.

IMG_5217

At this point they took away our amazing smelling fire center piece…

IMG_5220

…and took it to a cart beside the table to disassemble.

IMG_5225

He started slicing into what had just a moment before looked like a cindered piece of wood.

IMG_5228

To reveal a white inside.

IMG_5238

And then a beautiful piece of meat.

This was “Wagyu – parsnip, black trumpet, kombu” (paired with Sato Ho Homare ‘Pride of the Village’ Junmai Gingjo-shu, Sodu Honke Shuzo, Ibaraki-ken).

The parsnip was perfectly cooked and the light char on the outside was delicious.

That wagyu was the most buttery, delicious piece of meat I’ve ever had. I’ve had wagyu before, but for some reason never saw the appeal (or rationale for the crazy price), but this changed my mind. Good wagyu is incredibly good.

IMG_5243

And I loved that they served it on a charred slab of tree with a few different textures of mushrooms to go with it.

IMG_5252

At this point, our waiter excitedly came up to us and said he had a surprise, but asked that we sit tight and not get up to go to the bathroom just for the next few minutes because they were bringing us something special.

Something special?

Whatever could it be?

Never in my wildest dreams did I possibly imagine what came next…

IMG_5255

What are those lumps of weird looking things on rice in a box?

IMG_5254

Those… are WHITE TRUFFLES.  Like… THE white truffles.

As our waiter opened the box for us to smell it, I assumed he was probably just showing us how amazing these truffles smelled. All the other wait staff came over and took a sniff while we did. It was intoxicating.  Orgasm inducing even. I love truffles, but I have never seen (nor smelled) truffles like this.  White truffles are especially rare (and expensive).

So maybe we were going to get a shaving of white truffle on a small amuse bouche?

Oh no.

Oh no. No. No. No.

We were being GIVEN the white truffle risotto. THAT white truffle risotto which they originally offered to us for $125 per person and we dreamed of the “some day” we could let ourselves indulge that much more.

IMG_5256

I think I nearly leapt out of my seat!

They brought over a sauce that they poured over table-side.

IMG_5257

And then they came and shaved the fresh white truffles on top.

IMG_5264

It was as if someone handed me a bag of diamonds.

This little flake of truffle was a thing of beauty.

IMG_5268

Oh. My. God.

How on earth did we get so lucky? (I STILL have no idea why they decided to bestow such a gift upon us, but I will forever be grateful to the Alinea food gods)

This was the most decadent, delicious, exciting thing I have ever eaten in my life. And the best dish I have ever had and probably will ever have.

IMG_5269

 

How do you recover from that?  I think they gave us a few minutes to float around in euphoria before the next dish came out.

The next dish: “Veal cheeks- lapsang souchong, pine, blackberry” (paired with Faugeres Domaine Leon Barral 2010).

This dish was served over pine needles which added a lovely smell to the dish.  It was a good thing this was the dish that came after the truffle risotto, because had we not had the risotto, this would probably have been my favorite dish of the evening (or perhaps I was still coming down off the high?)

IMG_5271

I don’t know if I can explain this dish well enough to do it any justice.  Tons of textures and flavors and sweet and rich.  It was just fantastic.

IMG_5274

Next dish: “Hot potato- cold potato, black truffle, butter”

It was served in this interesting setup on an almost needle-like apparatus sticking out of a finger bowl-like dish.  It was kind of like a bumped up, deconstructed potato salad (maybe just because the potato was cold).  Not my favorite dish, but a nice segue bite.

IMG_5277

And then… a piece of artwork came to our table.  On the menu we received at the end, this is quite literally called “Duck ……..????………….!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!”  (yes… seriously)

IMG_5291

These were 60 different nibbles to be combined with 5 different preparations of duck.  This is nearly impossible to explain (and they made it a point to not explain too much).

IMG_5290

There was egg, and horse radish, and fruit leather, and fruit, and almonds, and turkish delight, and pistachio, and… and… and… and… I was overwhelmed by beauty and flavor and general awesomeness.

IMG_5288

 

The duck five ways included  rillette, confit,breast, foie gras, and a torchon.  Maybe in that order? I don’t remember… but each was the best version of the preparation that I can remember having. (This was paired with Bandol, Chateau Pardeaux 2007… which I do not remember after all of those amazing duck and things!)

IMG_5281

Our next dish: “Black truffle explosion, romaine, parmesan”

In the picture below the black you see is actually the table, so this was like a donut shaped spoon rest with a single dumpling inside.  This was certainly accurately described when called an “explosion.” It was like a soup dumpling with a mushroom bang.  So good.

IMG_5296

Our next dish was so incredibly delicate: “Ginger – five other flavors” (paired with The Rare Wine Co. ‘Boston Bual – Special Reserve’ Madeira, great with the gingers) which was a whole bunch of teeny tiny nibbles of ginger with different flavors on the ends of very long needles.

IMG_5298

Each nibble was roughly the size of a pencil eraser and it was a great palate cleanser that was also creative and fun.

IMG_5304

And the holder was so specially made to serve such a dish.

IMG_5302

And then another mystery on the table.

IMG_5305

Into this little dish (the center copper piece was about the size of a half dollar), they sat a holder that had spider like legs and then into that holder they sat “Pumpkin – smoldering cinnamon, maple, pumpkin seed.”

IMG_5309

 

The cinnamon stick was, quite literally, smoldering and smelled great.  You grabbed the stick (without burning yourself) and ate the pumpkin fritter.  This had incredible flavors and was a really great texture with a crispy outside and soft inside.  It was a very nice middle ground between sweet and savory to bring us from the meal into the dessert courses.

IMG_5308

At this point, our utensil pillows were moved to the center of the table as if to signal we were entering into a new part of this epic adventure.

IMG_5312

And they poured us a Chateau Tirecul la Fravier ‘Les Pins’ Monbazillac 2009.  I had no idea what on earth a Monbazillac is or could be, but this was awesome.  A dessert wine that wasn’t very sweet.  But very very good.

IMG_5314

Our first dessert: “Corn – white chocolate, honey,mango.”

This tasted like corn. Corn corn.  Why don’t more people put corn flavors into things? Especially dessert? This proved that if you do it right, it can be magical.  Everything about this was a work of art.

IMG_5322

And next… some fun: “Balloon – helium, green apple”

Sure enough, this balloon was filled with helium so that as you eat it, your voice gets that great squeak while you inhale an apple flavored balloon on a fruit leather string.  Clever and tasty and fun and unlike anything I have ever seen or tasted.  Super cool!

IMG_5326

And then they rolled out a tablecloth that felt like silicon and started adding dishes of all kinds filled with unknown things of all kinds to our table.

IMG_5334  IMG_5338

 

And poured us a Maculan ‘Torcolato’ Breganze 2009 which was, again, a great dessert wine that wasn’t too sweet.

IMG_5336

 

A chef came by and placed a metal ring on the table.

IMG_5339

Then filled it with a whole bunch of things including a crumb bottom…

IMG_5340

A liquid nitrogen something…

IMG_5344

And then a liquid chocolate…

IMG_5346

And then topped it with some meringue.

IMG_5347

And then they turned our table into artwork, spreading a vanilla sauce…

IMG_5349

…and violet candy across our table.

IMG_5354

And then dropped on little pieces of hazelnut (I think) nuggets.

IMG_5356

Some glittery violet dust and candied basil.

IMG_5359

And then removed the ring!

The chocolate had (mostly) become a mousse/pudding-like consistency.

IMG_5372

They call this “Milk chocolate – pate sucree, violet, vanilla” and invited us to pick up our spoons and dig in.

IMG_5370

But not before we took a picture behind this beautiful creation.

IMG_5371

It was so delicious and so fun to eat.  And not too overwhelming at the end of a fourteen course meal.

And then they folded it up… and just like that… the best meal I have ever had (yes… you heard me say it) was carted away.

IMG_5373

But not before they dropped off a menu trying to explain (as if it could be explained) the adventure we had just been on.

IMG_5374

And on our way out, as we waited for a cab, we peaked into the impeccable kitchen downstairs.

IMG_5376

Overall… Wow. Just wow.

This meal was the most impressive, fun, delicious, exciting food I have ever had.  It was surprise after surprise and fun after fun and taste after taste and just… wow.  It actually opened my eyes as to why I was ever so slightly underwhelmed by The French Laundry.  The French Laundry was perfect.  And that’s just it… it was too perfect.

It wasn’t all that fun. It wasn’t whimsical.

I’m sure some people would argue that food isn’t supposed to be fun nor whimsical. But when you can make food both of those things, plus taste like the best thing you have ever eaten, you have just created a world outside of food. It’s fine culinary entertainment at its absolute greatest. An experience.

It was an amazing journey.

Happy New Year!

Total Nom Points: 10 out of 10

nomscale- 10

 

 

Date-iversary 2013: Del Posto

7 Jan

We have been celebrating the anniversary of our first date for 6 years now. Every year we trade off our anniversary and Valentine’s Day and choose restaurants to surprise each other with.

This year, we had to rename our event to our Date-iversary, since our real anniversary is now our wedding date. (Awww)

But the tradition will not go away! Now we just have one more day to celebrate (and eat)!

This year, Mike chose Del Posto as our date-iversary meal.  Del Posto is famous for being one of the all-time best in NYC and is owned by Joe Bastianich, Lidia Bastianich and Mario Batali.  I had been there once before for lunch (and thought it was good but not great), but he hadn’t been yet. I was excited to go back with my honey.

They offer a 5 Course Tasting menu, which we opted for, at $126 each as well as a Captain’s Menu with 8 courses at $179.

The restaurant itself is stunning.  Sweeping interior with very dark wood and cream accents.

DSCF2900

 

And I especially love the circular balconies on the 2nd level.

DSCF2859

Everything is set formally yet modern.

DSCF2860

 

And there are little statement pieces throughout, for instance, this pitcher. (So not my style, but I loved the aesthetic in here)

DSCF2858

The lower level has the wine cellar, private rooms, and some restrooms.  The stairs that connect the two levels are equally stunning.

 

DSCF2899

DSCF2898

 

DSCF2897

 

 

And I love the collection of old globes under the stairs.

DSCF2896

 

We sat our table and started with cocktails. They were strong but very well done.

DSCF2862

Our amuse bouche were a collection of truffled goodness, including mini lobster rolls (top right), celery root parsnip soup with a truffled rim (botttom), and dried rice pasta puff in parmesan (top left).

DSCF2864

The rim of dried truffle on the soup made for quite a decadent few sips.

DSCF2865

And just in case lobster isn’t good enough on its own, adding truffle ain’t so bad!

DSCF2866

The bread basket had 4 different breads, each better than the last, with lardo and butter.

DSCF2867

The lardo was nice in small doses, but I preferred the very creamy, flavorful butter.

DSCF2869

Our first course of the tasting menu was Truffled Beef Carne Cruda with Grana Padano and Watercress Buds.  The beef carpaccio was seasoned perfectly and all the flavors and textures went very well together.

DSCF2870

Our second course was Charred Octopus with Umbrian Garbanzo, Celery Hearts & 25 year Aceto Tradizionale (Balsamic Vinegar).

DSCF2871

The char on this octopus was really flavorful and I really enjoyed the warm octopus and beans with the cooler and crisp greens. The sweetness of the balsamic was really nice on the dish.

DSCF2872

There is no way to photograph this next dish nicely, so you’re just going to have to trust me that this Luna Piena (moon shaped pasta) with Castelmangno & White Truffle Butter was out of this world.  What it lacked in color it had in flavor (in spades).  The truffle was fantastic and the pasta really tasted like pasta. (While this seems obvious, I’m always saddened when pasta tastes like nothing)

DSCF2874

We then had Traditional Del Posto Garganelli Verdi al Ragu Bolognese.  The pasta was green from spinach and the bolognese was lamb and veal.  All the flavors were rich and hearty.

DSCF2875

Next was the Lobster with Artichoke, Almond, Basil Salad, & Gangerine Essenza.  The lobster tail was from Maine (and finally tasted like it!)  I absolutely loved loved loved the sauce on this. It perfectly complimented the dish without taking away from the delicate lobster flavor.

DSCF2878

Next was labeled as follows: “Veal & Beef: Cosa Viene Prima? – Rocky Mashed Potatoes, Brussels Sprouts & Barolo Fondo”

Cosa Viene Prima translates to “What came first?”  While the usual end of this question is the chicken or the egg, in this term, it referred to the fact that it was beef wrapped in veal (or was it visa versa?) and it was served tableside with jus.

Very nice, meaty dish, with some mild offal flavor and nice richness.

DSCF2880

They then changed out our napkins very formally.  Funny that both Mike and I recognized this.  Fancy service is still so surprising.

We then moved into the sweeter courses with an intermzzo of Sfera di Caprino with Celery, Fig Agrodolce & Celery Sorbetto.  This was a sphere of goat cheese in a bread crumb crunch.  I usually really dislike celery as a flavor, but this was light and it all went very nicely together.

DSCF2882

While we decided not to do wine pairings for this meal, we sipped our cocktails throughout and then went for some dessert wines.

DSCF2883 DSCF2884 DSCF2886

Both were really fantastic.

And then it was time for some celebratory desserts (sorry about the photos, lighting was very tough in here).

We had a Tartufo al Caffe with Dark Chocolate, Sant’Eustachio Coffee & Candied Bread.  I really enjoy a tartufo. Something about breaking through that outside shell to the ice cream inside fills me with childhood joy. It helps that this was a deliciously executed version.

DSCF2887

Also included in the tasting was a Butterscotch Semifreddo with melon Agrumata & Crumbled Sbrisolona.    I loved the fruit with this and the butterscotch semifredo was fantastic.

DSCF2890

 

There were also a few extra desserts, including this apple fritter, which I absolutely loved.

DSCF2889

 

And this fun grater box with candies below and petit fours above.DSCF2892

Very whimsical, and nice bites of everything.

DSCF2893

And at the end they sent us home with a specially printed menu and a box of treats for the next day.

DSCF2894

Overall, our meal was fantastic.  Great execution, excellent flavors, very well paced, and it built from start to finish.  Each dish was unique and very tasty and felt classic yet somehow fresh.  You really can’t go wrong at this New York institution.

Total Nom Points: 9 out of 10

nomscale- 09.0

Cake Tasting at Pomme Palais

4 Jan

A few weeks ago, I was invited to attend a Holiday Cake tasting at Pomme Palais, a new French gourmet cafe from Chef Michel Richard.  Pomme Palais is in The Palace Hotel at 30 East 51st Street (between Madison and Park Avenues).

DSCF2833

 

The patisserie itself is brightly lit and spotlights the big, modern cases of various yummy treats.

DSCF2835

DSCF2848

 

The have some packaged goodies ready to go along with the individual items in the case.  (We actually went back and grabbed some candy bars when we were in the area a few days later)

DSCF2847

I was only able to attend for a bit, but we were treated to some amazing pastries in the time I was there.

The patisserie was described as “whimsical” in the overview and that is a great way to explain it.

The Macaron Cake was an “almond vanilla sponge cake layered with chocolate mousse, coated with dark chocolate, and decorated with macarons for playful color and texture”

DSCF2829

 

It was a beautiful and playful cake and was quite delicious.

DSCF2827

 

Though it didn’t sing the way some of the others did.

DSCF2836

 

The Opera Cake was “layered cake of coffee, chocolate, and almond flavors.”DSCF2828

I was a big fan of this one. I am not a huge cake fan, so I liked that this was layers of different textures without much traditional cake cake.

DSCF2855

We also tried the Charlotte Cake “with fruit, apricot, raspberry, passion yogurt mousse and lady fingers.  This cake can have a mousse filling with any fruit the customer prefers.”  This was good but not on the top of my list.

DSCF2831

 

The Orange Creme Brulee Cheesecake was something special.  It was described as “a creative twist on the classic cheesecake and flan.”  True to description, this was a perfect balance of cheesecake’s creamy denseness (but not too dense) with a flan like top.  And the orange added a nice flavor essence.

DSCF2839

The Lemon Eggceptional Cake was a beauty.  It was described as “layers of sponge cake, lemon curd, French meringue, topped with white chocolate lemon eggceptionals.”

DSCF2843

This was very nice and a light and fluffy cake, though lemon isn’t my favorite.

DSCF2853

 

My second favorite cake of the day was the Tart au Pomme which was “puff pastry with thin slices of apple, pastry cream, topped with sugar.”

DSCF2826

The apples on this just popped with flavor. A perfect texture and the perfect balance of tartness and sweet.

DSCF2834

But my number one favorite of the tasting was the Chocolate Fleur d’Automne: “Chocolate flower on top of cake with almond meringue and chocolate mousse.”

 

DSCF2822

 

What can I say? I’m a chocolate girl!  This was an exceptional balance of textures and richness with sweetness and a hint of crisp from the hard thin chocolate on top.  I absolutely loved this cake and even though my tummy was quite full by this time, I ate every last bite of this one.

DSCF2851

 

Though, alas, I couldn’t finish the rest.  I felt awful wasting so much great dessert.

DSCF2849

I had to leave just before the cut into the most adorable of the treats: Michel’s Snowman: “White meringue Snowman wrapped up with a sugar scarf and marzipan-chocolate hat… he carries a rosemary stalk ‘tree’ and includes raspberry sauce.”

You prepare this by rimming the plate with whipped cream and filling the hollow base of the snowman with ice cream.  Sounds like my kind of dessert! I absolutely love hard meringue. I was bummed I didn’t get a chance to try this one, and when we went back a few days later to get some candy, they were all sold out. I’ll just have to go back!

But seriously… how adorable is this guy?

DSCF2825

 

 

Near the end of the tasting, a very jovial Chef Michel Richard came out to say hello.  He is quintessentially French, and while almost a little too friendly with the ladies, he was very happy to ham it up for the camera.  He was incredibly happy and seemed genuinely excited to be sharing his creations with us.

DSCF2850

We were sent home with a lovely box of candy.

 

DSCF2857

 

And each bite was better than the last.  I am very picky about my candies, and these were exceptional.

DSCF2856

I have been to many patisseries in NYC (and around the world), baking is my first love, and I am a dessert person to the extreme.  I wasn’t expecting to like this place as much as I did, and the desserts were really fantastic and original.  The only other place I’ve had desserts as noteworthy is at Dominique Ansel. (Though Chef Ansel will always have my heart)

I would never have known to stop by Pomme Palais had I not been invited to try these cakes, so this was one perk in which I was more than happy to participate.  I was very thankful for the opportunity and can’t wait to go back (and try that snowman)!

Cakes range from $20 (for the snowman) to $42 (for most of the full cakes).  Quite expensive, but worth it to impress at a party. And the individual pastries are probably reasonably priced for a nice snack near Rockefeller Center or before a Radio City performance. (They also have some non-dessert foods that looked quite good). And the candy bars we got a few days later… awesome.

Highly recommend a stop!

 

Note: While I was privileged enough to do this tasting for free, all opinions expressed are my own.