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Carbone and the $54 Veal Parm

2 Mar

Of all the restaurants that opened last year, few got as much buzz as Carbone. A restaurant from Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi and Jeff Zalaznick, parts of the team that brought us Torrisi Italian Specialties and Parm (which are two places that New York holds dear but I, sadly, haven’t had the opportunity to try yet).

We actually live across the street from the OTHER Carbone (I blogged about it years ago) which caused a good deal of confusion and made headlines for having a few rather famous people waiting in the completely wrong restaurant in the completely wrong side of town (for the record, that Carbone is “Carbone Ristorante Italiano” in the Garment District but THIS Carbone is in Greenwich Village on Thomson between Bleecker and West Houston. Their website URLs are even nearly identical as CarboneNewYork.com and CarboneNYC.com)

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We found ourselves in the dining room after making a reservation exactly 1 month (to the day) ahead of time.  The restaurant has a combination of old world Italian and trendy industrial, thanks to the steel doors, in combination with the elegant yet simple decorations.  It was elegant but a little edgy, and I liked it.  The only thing that was a bit tough for me (and now for you) is that the lighting wasn’t great for photos, so apologies ahead of time that these aren’t my best work.

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I was especially amused by the rooster paraphernalia.

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Even in the bathroom.

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(Another note on the bathroom… there was an interesting piece of art there that I actually returned to take a picture of.  This is a piece of white paper in a lit white box with a candle on top… W… T… F…)

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As soon as we ordered, we were served some starters from the kitchen, including a nearly transparent, thinly sliced place of prosciutto that tasted as flavorful as it was delicate in texture.  It almost melted in porky fatty goodness right on your tongue.

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We were also provided some cauliflower (which Mike said was great, but I couldn’t have due to my allergy to peppers) and a bite each of one of the best pieces of crystally parm I’ve ever tasted.  It was nutty and rich and was lovely with the prosciutto.

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And some incredible bread, that was fresh and flavorful, with a bread “stick” that had all the flavors of pizza but in a soft, doughy bread.

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For being a huge fan of wine, and traveling to three different areas in Italy, I still feel utterly clueless when it comes to picking out Italian wines.  French wines, I know exactly what I like, but for some reason, I cannot get Italian wines to stick in my head.  So we relied on their sommelier to pick one out for us, and he did a damn good job with this gem of a bottle.

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We began with the Fettuccini con Funghi, and even though we ordered one dish to split, they nicely divided it in half and provided us with our own plates.

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This was really aromatic, with the deep, rich mushrooms complimented effortlessly with fresh herbs and spices. And that pasta was perfectly cooked and textured to support all the components of the dish.

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We also had to try the infamous veal parmesan which was rumored to be served on a pizza tray (it wasn’t) and very large (it was, though I guess my expectations were a wee bit grander).

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Luckily, the flavors didn’t disappoint.  It was a full, very vealy flavor with the right amount of breading and cheese to be slightly crispy but very moist and cheesy.

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The sauce was classic and a perfect foil to the richness.

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Mike really appreciated that they included the bone and went to down scraping off each delectable morsel.

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As much as we loved the veal, however, at $54 (yes… fifty four dollars) I feel like it just didn’t live up to expectations and price.  I’m glad we split both the pasta and the entree so the expense for both of us wasn’t too crazy, but at $54, that should be the best damn veal parm I’ve ever had. And it wasn’t. It was damn good. But it just wasn’t $54 good.  But I’m glad we had the opportunity to try it.

We were then given lovely biscotti as we decided on dessert.

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And shown a lovely dessert tray to choose from.

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We went with the chocolate cake (may have been chocolate cherry, not sure).  It was epically moist, rich, and flavorful. I’m not a cake fan but this was very nice.  Then again, it didn’t make me into a cake fan. I wished it had some crunch to it, like some chocolate pieces.

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As we went out, we saw them preparing a basil and persimmon dish table side. The smell of the fresh basil and precision of preparing this dish in front of us was pretty amazing.  I have no idea what dish it was, but I wanted to sit down again to try it.

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Overall, our meal was really fantastic.  Everything was flavorful, prepared well, and a little different from the typical.  But now that I’ve tried the $54 veal parm, I don’t think I need to have it again, and I can’t even say I would recommend it as a “must.”  But the food we had was really great and I would go again in a heart beat to try some of their less famous dishes.  Especially some more pasta dishes because ours was really phenomenal.

Total Nom Points: 8 out of 10 (docked a half point or so because that veal parm is just too expensive for what it was)

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New Restaurant Opening: all’onda

9 Feb

Today is the 5th anniversary of NYC Nom Nom!  It has been a great 5 years. Thanks for reading!  Now onto the review…

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Mike got to talking with his foodie coworker about new restaurant openings. They were excited about all’onda, called the “biggest opening of ’14” by Eater.  It is near Union Square and is from Chef Chris Jaeckle and Restaurateur Chris Cannon.  Mike made the reservation on the day it opened in early January and the first Saturday reservation he could get was for February 8, a month later.

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When we arrived, roughly 45 minutes before our reservation to grab an early drink, we were greeted by some bad news: they didn’t have our reservation.  Mike had tried to make the reservation originally online, but it wasn’t working, so he called.  But alas, they had no record of it.  The manager came up to our group and very nicely and genuinely apologized, explaining that they first took reservations on paper and it appears that a number of them had been lost. He mentioned that this was not the first time he was making that speech, but that there was a table right near the bar where we could have the full menu. He said if something opened up upstairs, we would have first dibs, and he would buy us our first round of drinks.

Mistakes happen, but it’s truly about how someone handles it. This manager handled it beautifully and humbly, making us feel like honored guests, and it left us all with a very good feeling even though it wasn’t the best situation.

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We were bummed, but we agreed to sit downstairs and hope, while we peered upstairs with a ping of jealousy.

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The bar does open right up to the kitchen, however, which is always fun to steal a glance of.

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We ordered rinks, including this lovely cocktail called Old Sal, which was made with Rittenhouse rye, rosemary infused cocchi americano, and cynar. It was very nicely mixed and I enjoyed the sip I tried.

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I wound up ordering a phenomenal glass of wine: a 2009 Bianco di Custoza Superiore Monte Del Fra Veneto, described as 55 yr old vines, Garganega, Trebbiano etc. on limestone, complex mineral character, great value.  Great value it was. Even at $14 for the glass, it tasted like a very expensive wine and I enjoyed drinking it all evening. The wine list really looked like a piece of paper made of wood.

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And then just as we were resigned to the slightly chilly bar table near the door, we got some good news. A table had opened up, and we got to go upstairs.

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They served lovely, crusty bread (that we kept refilling to dip in the great sauces all night) and a very thin cracker-like bread that had great flavor.

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We started with the big recommendation: Arancini (fried risotto balls) with squid ink and sea urchin.

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The squid ink inside was so dark, and so beautiful, it looked like magic inside.

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A beautiful, delicious, luxurious black magic.  The slightly salty, marine-tasting, soft uni on top perfectly complimented the crunch on the arancini which gave way to a very smooth risotto which had just the slightest al dente texture.  Very, very nice start to the meal.

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We decided to split a whole bunch of dishes amongst the 4 of us, including 3 of the homemade pastas.

First, a tortellini in parmesan dashi, tomato oil, and porcini.  We were surprised to see it came in a broth, but what a broth it was! The tortellini themselves were fine, but it was the broth that really made this dish stand out. It was incredibly umami, with an earthy, rich flavor that we kept getting more and more bread to sop it all up.

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We also tried the bucatini with smoked uni. It was supposed to come with spicy breadcrumbs, but due to my allergy, I couldn’t have that, so they did without. And you know what? I didn’t miss it at all. I am sure a little crunch on top would have been lovely, but I absolutely moaned as I ate this dish.  The bucatini (hollow spaghetti) was perfectly cooked and the uni created such a creamy and rich sauce that had a true softness of flavor that was truly exquisite.  It was like a Japanese spin on carbonara. My favorite of the pastas.

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Our third pasta dish was a lumache with aged duck ragu, treviso, and chocolate.  This was everyone else’s favorite, and it was obvious why. Each delicate piece of duck that was in the ragu just punched you in the tongue with flavor.

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The chocolate is the brown sprinkled around the plate in this second picture.  There was a rich and earthy nature to this dish and while you didn’t taste the chocolate directly, it complimented the dish beautifully.

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For our entrees, we tried seafood, beef, and poultry.

First, the skate, which was veal glazed with beets and semolina dumpling.  There was a touch of sweetness to the masterfully cooked skate, and the components around the skate added color, texture, and flavor without taking away from the delicate skate.

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I am still not sure what the veal glaze was, but the entire dish was composed very well.

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The New York Strip was with parmesan potatoes, mustard greens, and fonduta. The potatoes had a great outer crisp that gave way to a very tender and flavorful potato with a great parmesan flavor. The steak was cooked beautifully and had just the right amount of flake salt. But I was especially impressed with the mustard greens. They were so flavorful and a perfect texture for a green leaf.  I was amused as I sampled all the bites around the table because I absolutely LOVE steak, but this was my least favorite part of the meal, not because it was bad, but just because everything else was so original and it stood out so much that it was hard to compare to perfectly cooked beef.

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We also tried the guinea hen with parsnip, shio kombu, and foie gras sugo.

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I was so impressed with this dish. The skin was perfectly crispy and the meat tasted so rich. I loved the parsnip puree and all the lovely jus.

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We also got two sides, including the brussels sprouts with cider vinegar, honey, curry, and pistachios. We got it without the pistachios (and possibly the curry, unless it was very well hidden) because they included peppers (which I’m allergic to), but I can’t imagine this being any better.  They were so perfectly cooked with a crispy char and a delicate sweetness.

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Our other side was polenta with miso-cured egg yolk and wild mushrooms. Everything about this was awesome.  Rich and earthy and awesome.  I was with 3 self-proclaimed polenta haters, and every one of them loved this dish.

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There was a very nice dessert wine list and I really loved my glass, nv Arneis Passito “Renesium” Malvira.

For dessert, we tried the olive oil cake with ricotta gelato, lemon, and basil.  The cake was so moist and flavorful, and the ricotta  ever so slightly sour but creamy and delightful, with (what I think were) tapioca pearls that resembled caviar.  A really great dessert.

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We also tried the chocolate tart with amaretto and soy gelato.  I love love love love LOVED this dessert.  The chocolate was so rich and so smooth. Impossibly smooth. And that soy gelato (I think it was soy sauce gelato) had an umami saltiness that I just could not get enough of.

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Wow.  An incredible meal from start to finish.  It’s a bit hard to describe, but the closest I can come is to say that it was like Italian ingredients made with an Asian flare using a lot of great seafood.  Each dish tasted differently from anything I had ever had before.  A slight, indescribable twist on a flavor or a combination of ingredients that I had never tried before.  Each dish stood on its own, but if I had to make you the perfect meal, I would go with the arancini, lumache (since it was the crowd favorite), the guinea hen, and the chocolate tart.  But then again, we saw the short ribs (for two) go by a few times and each time we were jealous. First, it was huge (one of our dining companions compared it to a “clog,” yes, a giant shoe) and second, the smell wafted through the restaurant like a tease.

Next time.

Call now and get a reservation, and maybe call up to check to make sure they have it the day before.

Total Nom Points: 8.5 out of 10

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Root & Bone: The Pop-up from Top Cheftestants Jeffrey McInnis and Janine Booth

27 Nov

If you have been reading this blog long enough, you know that we are unabashed Top Chef sluts. We love watching the show and love exploring the restaurants the “Cheftestants” open and being able to eat the food that looks so amazing on the screen.

Mike saw that Underground Eats was offering tickets to Root & Bone: The Pop-up. When Mike’s foodie coworker friend mentioned it to him as well, we went for it.

For just 2 weekends (November 15th, 16th, 22nd & 23rd), Chef Jeffrey McInnis (from Top Chef Season 5) and Chef Janine Booth (from the current Season 11), were taking over a new Brooklyn restaurant to test their menu and some food concepts as a pop-up.   The tickets were $65 per person and included 9 courses and beer pairings.  Seemed like a deal to us!

This pop-up was a sneak peak into a new restaurant from Chef McInnis (who was previously at Yardbird in Miami, Florida) and Chef Booth before they open Root & Bone in Alphabet City in 2014 (not my favorite neighborhood… but what can you do).

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We went to The Brew Inn in Greenpoint, Brooklyn (surprisingly easy to get to even though we had to take the subway to Queens to catch the G train to Greenpoint).  We really liked the aesthetic inside with a mix of wood, brick, and mirrors (though the bathroom had an awkwardly small sink).

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The menu for the evening sounded great, though there were some concerns with my peppers (capsaicin) allergy.  But Chef McInnis plopped himself next to me on the bench and went through it line by line and promised he would take care of me.

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We started with a really great hard cider from McKenzie’s. Usually I am not a hard cider fan.  I absolutely LOVE apple cider and I always find myself wanting hard cider to taste more like real cider with a kick.  McKenzie’s was perfect.  Every bit as delicious as regular cider but with a nice tang and faint booziness.  Best hard cider I’ve ever had. I’ll be seeking this out!

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Our first course was a sampling of bites (see photo below):

Top left: “Waldorf Salad” with sheets of crisp apple, NY grapes, buttermilk, blue cab, and celery.  It was like a tiny wrap with a bite of crab inside. It was good but a bit watery. Not overly memorable.

Just to the right of that was the hot fresh baked buttermilk biscuits with sea cured foie gras and tomato jam. I couldn’t have the tomato jam due to a bit of paprika, so chef brought me my own version with rhubarb jam (more on that in a moment).

The sandwiches below that on the board were grilled lamb ham n’ pimento cheese sandwiches with pickles.  Sadly, this was something they couldn’t edit to make it peppers-free.  I asked the table to tell me it was awful, but the truth was it was the one most picked as their favorite. (Damn)

Below that and to the left were grilled pierogi with pickled cabbage and dijonaise. I loved the grilled char on these. Very flavorful and the pickled cabbage underneath them was fantastic.

And then bottom right were deviled eggs with American sturgeon caviar.  Usually I don’t see the point in deviled eggs, but these were fantastic.  Packed with flavor (even the ones I had with the paprika removed).

We LOVED the board as a whole, and even though I’m pretty sure it was just a way of sampling a few different appetizer options, we loved it as a sampler and I hope they keep this concept on the menu for the restaurant.

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My biscuits with foie and rhubarb were superb.  The biscuits were perfectly crisp yet soft and the foie was cooked well and paired so nicely with the sweet of the rhubarb.  A teeny bit of saltiness made the entire bite pop in my mouth.

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We then had a House Made Chartcuterie Board with spicy goat “slim jim” (I couldn’t have it), smoked duck ham (flavorful but forgettable), wild boar head terrine (really enjoyed this on the bread), smoked tasso lamb ham (couldn’t have it), polish sausage (kielbasa… very, very tasty and one of the best versions of kielbasa I’ve tried), pickled vegetables (pickled unbelievably well with a touch of sweet and sour), mustards, and marinated cheddar jar with grilled bread.

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The jar of marinated cheddar cubes was great. I loved the flavor and the herbs that really complimented the cheese. Mike was a bit put off that this was in cubes since he thought it cheapened the food.  I had no issue with it.

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The chefs came out and spoke to us a few times. They were so excited to be there and to be sharing the food with us. It was a really fun experience to be there to try the food and talk with them as they get ready to take on Manhattan.

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The first main came out and it was shrimp ‘n’ grits. They were beer crusted red shrimp with tobasco spiced ham (I had a different version without the tobasco), and baby onion over tone ground grits.

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When the chefs came out, they told us that they were serving the deep fried heads of the shrimp as well.  Now I’ve sucked shrimp heads before, but eating the head whole was a new experience. Sure enough, it was delicious and crispy enough to eat without a problem.

The dish was a bit mixed.  The grits were some of the best grits I’ve ever had. If all grits tasted like that, I would understand why people love them so much. The shrimp had a delicate flavor and the sauce was very good, however, the ham (both my version and, according to my tablemates, everyone else’s) was VERY salty and it overpowered the dish. I love salt, but this was too much even for me.  Shame. The dish would have been excellent had not been for the saltiness.

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Our beer adventure continued (we wound up having 5 drinks in all) including an ale from Queen’s Brewery.

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Our final entree was “Root & Bone’s Signature Meatloaf” and it was described as “slow beer braised Australian lamb shanks, caramelized onion, minted celery root & parsnip puree, with carrot BBQ sauce.” (I had to have an alternate sauce)

At first, we were confused. Was this 2 dishes? A meatloaf and a lamb shank.

What wound up coming out was very surprising: a “loaf” made from lamb shank. It was as if they made the lamb, pulled it apart, and then assembled it into a loaf which was seared.  It was absolutely f*cking fantastic.  The sear on the outside gave it an ever so slight char and crisp with an incredibly flavorful lamb.  The puree combined with mint was so inspired, and when you ate it all together, it took each individual component to a new level.  One of my favorite dishes of all time. When the restaurant opens, I will get this again. I loved it.

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At this point I realized there was some activity outside. They were assembling dessert in the little side yard outside.

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Dessert was carrot cake with carrot cream cheese emulsion, walnut brittle, and cream cheese sorbet.  I absolutely loved the sauce, the sorbet, and the walnut brittle. (Especially the walnut brittle)  But the cake… it was ehhh…  A bit too dry, not enough flavor.  I tried to saturate it in the sorbet but I wound up eating the sorbet with the sauce and the brittle and leaving the cake behind.

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At the end of the night, we were asked to fill out comment cards, which we all did happily.  Everyone was buzzing about the food around us, and all 4 of us had a great meal.  As for favorite, the sandwich got a big vote from our table (damn x 2) but my favorite was the lamb meatloaf.  Sooooo good.

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At the end of the night, the chefs were saying goodnight to everyone and were kind enough to take photos.  I thanked them for a great meal and for taking such great care of me with my allergy (it really was above and beyond and I didn’t feel even slightly embarrassed for the menu edits, which is a common feeling for me since many places aren’t very kind nor considerate about allergies).

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We chatted with Chef Booth for a bit and she was so incredibly sweet.  (People that good looking and that talented are typically not nearly that nice).  She was so excited to send us home with our gift bag of tabasco and pepper jelly (womp wahhhh).  It was sweet to have something to take home, however.

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This was a truly wonderful experience.  Feeling like we had an “insiders” look and being able to try such great food made for a great night.  I cannot wait for the restaurant to open next year and I hope these chefs have great success.