Tag Archives: restaurant review

New Restaurant Opening: Betony

8 Jun

When it comes to top restaurants, I find it very hard to judge fairly when I’m comparing a Tasting Menu to just about anything else.  For instance, our Top 10 contains 9 restaurants that were either Tasting Menus or Prix Fixe.  But seeing as though our Numero Uno of ALL TIME was Eleven Madison Park, we were excited to hear that a former chef from there (Bryce Shuman) and a former General Manager (Eamon Rockey) had started a new place that opened in Mid-May called Betony.

Betony is located on 57th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues, in prime Central Park tourist territory.  The inside is a very interesting space, with plush brown fuzzy seating and walls and ceiling carved and etched.

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The menu is sparse but has plenty of items that sounded quite tasty. The left part of the menu is small single bites.

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The middle is bigger sized appetizers.

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And the right column are the entrees.

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We had a tough time choosing, and when we asked our waitress for guidance, she explained to us that at least half the menu was amazing (making it so hard to choose!)

We wound up going with the marinated trout roe, “tuna melt,” hot foie gras, roast chicken, and grilled short ribs.

We began with some well mixed twists on classic cocktails (Mike got the negroni and I got the mojito) and the table bread was breadsticks (which looked like thin spaghetti with some delicious salt on them) and cheddar chips.  Both were salty, crunchy goodness.

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Our first appetizer was the Marinated Trout Roe on a puffed rice cracker with cucumber.

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Not only was this fresh and delicious…

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… it was a work of art!

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And then we tried the “Tuna Melt” which had a thin layer of melted fontina cheese on top and was on a brioche.  This was also stunningly beautiful and WOW was it good.  Like punch you in the face good. (I’m not even sure what that means but it seems appropriate somehow).

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My only complaint about the “finger foods” is that there were 3 of each. With a party of 2, it leaves for some awkwardness when you each have one and then look at the last bite longingly.  Even though Mike and I have been together for over 5 years and we’re getting married next week (HOLY SHEIS MONKEYS! NEXT WEEK!), we still struggled making this decision. Mike was a gentleman, however, and told me to have the last bite of tuna.  I gave him a quick taste because I couldn’t be that selfish.  But honestly, I would have rather they served us just 2 or bit the bullet and served 4.  Fair is fair when it comes to delicious food.

We were then served an intermezzo “from the kitchen” which was a gooseberry compote with tomato snow.  It smelled like flowers and a summer day.  I found the compote very tasty but there was something… off… about the compote. It tasted very soapy. Like something went wrong soapy.  It was the only blemish on an otherwise spotless meal.

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We were then served bread, which was baked in-house by the pastry chef and had caraway seeds, which reminded us of a Jewish deli in all the right ways.

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Up next came the foie gras, which was just described as being “hot or cold.” Our waitress guided us to the hot one that came with crispy kale and ham hock consume (which was poured over table side).

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It also had black garlic and a few other ingredients in it (including a top chip) that are escaping me. They served this with two plates and an extra bowl of consume.

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This dish was very well composed and the kale and the foie were great together.  The consume was superb and they very smartly offered to bring more rolls to soak up the awesome leftover liquids.  The sommelier suggested a moscato which complimented the rich foie very nicely.

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We asked the sommelier to recommend a glass of wine for each of the entrees we ordered, so he suggested a round Pinot Noir and a smokey Rioja.  Both were excellent with the meal.

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Both entrees were also served with a sauce/jus at the table.  The chicken had a rich and flavorful, but simple chicken broth.

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It was cooked on the bone but served without it and came with perfectly cooked turnips and morel mushrooms.  The skin on top was crispy, but if I can be a nit picker, it could have been a tad bit crispier. But the flavor was very earthy and the texture moist.  Well executed.

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The chicken came with a side that had a grain (perhaps bulgar?) with dark meat confit and a quale egg.  This was fantastic and really nailed all the flavors. (Our waitress told us that in an effort to use every bit of the chicken, the liver dish was also created from the whole chickens they buy).

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The Grilled Short Rib came with romaine (which was charred, and beautifully so) and sweetbreads.  A beef jus was also poured over the dish at the table and this was an incredibly rich and flavorful dish, with some of the most tender meat I’ve ever tasted. A bit was served on the bone, but the slices of short rib were out of this world.

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This was a dish not to be missed.

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At this point we were basking in delicious nomming glory but we couldn’t stop there!  The desserts just sounded so interesting and were listed without much description with simple the most forward flavor of the dish.

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We also ordered a dessert Vouvray (Vouvray is our favorite white wine)

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But out came a madeira… which was poured for us before we had a chance to interrupt and ask if this was correct. Turns out it was not, as expected, but the lovely sommelier topped us off and we got to enjoy this awesome dessert drink on the house while waiting for the Vouvray.

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We chose the blueberry dish which came with crispy poppyseed flavors, fresh (and superbly delicious) blueberries, and a tea flavored ice cream.  This was beautiful and tasty.  A very fresh, very summary dessert.

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Then we each got the selection of 3 dessert tastes:

Frozen Chocolate Stout Macarons (A very nice balance of flavors, though the macarons were bit dense)
Pink Peppercorn Caramel Chews (A curious and quite good flavor and texture combination)
Dried Cherry & Pistachio Divinity (Awesome… awesome awesome awesome.  A great combination of salty and sweet.)

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What a meal!

This was a masterpiece.  It easily rivaled many tasting menus we have had and I might have to put it right in line with Ai Fiori, our current #10 spot holder on the all-time Top 10 list.

The service was spectacular, attentive, and friendly.  It wasn’t at all stuffy and they really cared about how much we enjoyed the food.

It was obvious that the chef is thinking critically about his dishes and doesn’t put anything on the plate just for the sake of putting it there. Flavors are expertly combined and the plating is beautifully crafted. The only miss was the weird tomato snow and some dishes I couldn’t find a single fault with. If this is how good they are just 3 weeks in, I can’t imagine how good they will be as they find their sea legs.

Total Nom Points: 8.5 out of 10 (we struggled about giving this an 8.5 or a 9, but it is definitely in line with Ai Fiori so we need to keep some consistency around this Nom joint)

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Prune for Dinner

2 May

Mike and I have been to Prune before, but only for (a marvelous) brunch. Prune was so marvelous, in fact, that it ranked in at number 10 of the Top 10 Noms of 2012. We vowed to come back for dinner, and nearly a year later, we finally did.

I thought they didn’t accept reservations, but as it turns out, that applies to brunch only. So we walked in around 6pm on a Saturday and they were pretty full, but the hostess said it would be about 30 minutes as long as we didn’t mind eating at the bar and she took my cell phone number. 20 minutes later, she called and to the bar we went.

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We started with Duck Liver Garbure with Toasted Chestnut. She told us it came with brussels sprout leaves and in a duck broth. It was served with a spoon.  There was no mistaking this liver for an organ. Liver, for some reason, is usually disguised. Either made into pate or in a darkened mass that is remiss of it’s organy folds. Not this one. And it tasted as organy as it looked. Though for us, that is a good thing. Though we had a very tough time not comparing it to the amazing liver we had just a few weeks ago at Local 188 in Portland, ME.

But I just loved the chestnuts in here. Chestnuts are one of my favorite foods and here they were used perfectly. They added a really nice flavor to it and paired well with the liver taste.

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For entrees we split the lamb chop and the crispy duck.

The lamb was a Grilled Lamb Blade Chop with Turkish Piyaz. I had no idea what piyaz was, but it was served with parsley and onions.  I looked up piyaz and it appears to be a bean salad… which I didn’t see. But that didn’t make it any less awesome. The lamb was super lamby without being too overpowering and the parsley and onion were a nice compliment to the lamb.

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The crispy duck was something we had seen with other diners and when it looks THIS crispy, how can you not order it?

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This was just pure, unadulterated ducky goodness. That crispy skin was very good. (There are few things in this world I like more, or crave more, than the extra crispy skin of various fowl).

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For a side, we ordered the sweet potatoes with brown butter sauce with brown sugar vinaigrette. It was served as baked sweet potato pieces (baked up perfectly so they were soft without being mushy) and they put crisped potato skins on top of a lovely mound of (not too sweet) brown butter. This was actually our favorite dish of the night.  An incredibly side… and next to such incredibly entrees, it is impressive that it was THAT impressive to us!

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By the end of the meal, I had duck and lamb on every corner of my face and hands. Because it seemed just wrong to leave a single piece of meat on these bones. I unabashedly picked each and every one up and sucked every morsel off I could get. No shame.

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For dessert, Mike went with the espresso gelato “affogato” in cold maple syrup.  A quick google search tells me that “affogato” translates to “drowned” in Italian. And that this was.  The maple syrup was a great foil of sweetness for the rich espresso gelato.

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I chose the Breton Butter Cake which our waitress/bartender (who kept us well fed, lubricated, and entertained throughout the night) informed us was the chef’s special famous dessert. Well okay then! It is served with moscato (though I opted for the full 2 oz. pour) and is a flakey, gooey, delicious butter cake sprinkled with powdered sugar. How a butter cake can taste that good and not be the slightest bit greasy, I do not know, but it was incredibly tasty and went incredibly well with the moscato.  I can see why it’s so famous.

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There is not much more to say. This was simply an incredibly meal. I just love this restaurant.  I am sure I am slightly swayed by my love for the owner’s (Gabrielle Hamilton) book, Blood, Bones, and Butter, which is one of the best food books I’ve ever read. But Mike has never read it and he has the same fondness I do. We both left there saying that we had enjoyed our meal very, very much.  There is just an absolute love for food at Prune which comes out without flash or opulence, but is just plain delicious. Hard to beat.

Total Nom Points: 8.5 out of 10

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Bouchon – Time Warner Center (And our adventure in getting a French Laundry reservation!)

30 Apr

We were on a shopping adventure this past weekend and it took us to The Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle. (For you non-natives, The Time Warner Center is right on the Southwest corner of Central Park, on 59th Street at the convergence of 8th Ave/Central Park West and Broadway. It is filled with mostly higher end stores and the entire basement is occupied by a Whole Foods).  There are a number of amazing restaurants there, including A Voce, Landmarc, and one of the top 3 on our Bucket List, Per Se.  (The other two on top are The French Laundry in Napa Valley and Alinea in Chicago… funny enough, both The French Laundry and Per Se are from Chef Thomas Keller, and Alinea is from Chef Grant Achatz, who worked for Thomas Keller at The French Laundry… and who also wrote the amazing book, Life, On The Line about his struggle with tongue cancer, but somehow as intriguing, his desire to push the food world into the future).

Now a funny sequence of events… we had spent the previous 2 days dialing and redialing The French Laundry with the hope of securing a reservation for our honeymoon. Yes, our honeymoon 2 months from now. But the rule of The French Laundry is that you can only get a reservation by calling 2 months prior to the date you want, on the date (so on the 28th of April for the 28th of June).  We will be in the area for three days on our honeymoon (June 26-28) and we had spent our lunches for the past 2 days dialing in vain.   On the 26th they told us that they have a private party on June 26th so no reservations were available, on the 27th we got in after an hour of dialing, but all the reservations were gone (so we went on the wait list). With the 28th being our last shot, we pulled out all the stops. We booked a hotel in the area and then called to speak with the hotel concierge… of which there was none but there was a man there who offered to help us… by Googling The French Laundry for us (um… no).  We called our credit card concierges and I convinced my Chase Sapphire Preferred to call on our behalf the following day. I even contacted a few well connected friends to see if they happened to have Thomas Keller in their rolodex.  (Alas, no).

So on this day that we set off on our shopping adventure, I suggested we grab a bite to eat and a coffee at Bouchon, which is right in the Time Warner Center.  We realized that we would have to make it a quick one so we could start calling The French Laundry at 12:45 (15 minutes before they officially open their lines at 1pm EST/10am PST… we were hopeful that our starting early would earn us some points in the… um… phone universe?)

Bouchon has a to-go window, but we decided to sit in their cafe and hoped to have a quick pastry and coffee. We sat down and realized that they actually served a full breakfast menu (yet no pastries… hmmm), so rather than croissants and coffee, we wound up with breakfast cocktails and full meals, plus the coffee.

And just a few minutes after sitting down it dawned on me… Bouchon is part of the Thomas Keller empire. On the day revolving around getting a reservation at the very restaurant that made this chef famous, we sat down at his casual cafe.  Hopefully that would be a good omen.

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Mike got a cobb salad, which was filled with incredibly fresh ingredients.  It was a very good cobb salad and the bacon was especially delectable.

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I got the Quiche of the Day, which was a Florentine (spinach and gruyere) and a side salad. The salad greens were very nicely dressed. The quiche was very good and was pretty soft (which I happen to like) with a nice crust. Best quiche I’ve ever had? No… but certainly very tasty and a nice, satiating meal to start our full day of walking all over the Upper West Side. (And to get us fueled up for aggressive phone dialing!)

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As our meal wrapped up and we got the bill, my alarm went off alerting us that it was 12:45. Time to start calling.

We browsed through the Time Warner Center for the next 15 minutes before getting “serious” and finding a bench in Central Park to focus on dialing and redialing.

When it was around 20 after one, I noticed I had received a voice message in between all my dialing.  I switched over (concerned about losing precious redialing seconds) and found it was my Visa concierge… calling to tell me that they hadn’t gotten the reservation but they could put me on the wait list if I wanted.

I was defeated. If Visa had called me, surely they had gotten through and found all the reservations gone. (Though why they wouldn’t automatically put me on the wait list I didn’t understand… just add my name to the list and call back to remove it later if I don’t want it… come on now).  I continued to dial and redial, deciding that I would eventually get through and put my name on that wait list.  Mike continued to furiously call as well… but we were disheartened.

Then 5 minutes later, I got the recording… the magic recording that is only slightly better than a busy signal… It says something about the reservations being open 2 months to the day prior and blah blah blah… Press 3 for a reservationist. So you press 3 and you wait… and wait… and wait… hearing a lovely recording telling you that all reservationists are busy but they will be with you soon… and you wait… and you pray. And you hope that when they pick up that they will not tell you that all reservations are totally gone (like the day before) or that they were closed for a private event (like 2 days before).

After a solid 5 minutes, the reservationist picked up and asks how she could help me. I refrained from screaming that we had been hearing busy signals for 45 minutes (plus all the busy signals and disappointment of the prior 2 days) and we now just needed to know ARE THERE ANY RESERVATIONS LEFT?!?!  So she goes through the whole dog and pony…

“What date are you interested in?”

“June 28th” (why else would I be calling with such fury on April 28th?)

“How many in your party?”

“Two” (but I will beg and/or pay and/or force people to join us if all you have left is a 4-top!)

“Well…”

(You’re killing me lady!!!)

“We don’t have anything left for dinner…”

(She said dinner… but she didn’t say lunch… tell me about lunch dammit… TELL ME ABOUT LUNCH!)

“But…”

(SHE SAID BUT!)

“We only have 11am for lunch that day. Is that okay?”

(WELL OF COURSE THAT’S OKAY! I’d take 3am if you had it!)

“Yes. That would be great.”

So there you have it… after the most epic reservation system (well… maybe Momofuku Ko was close, but that didn’t feel so dire since we live in NYC, so we weren’t under a time crunch of having to secure the reservation during the only three days we would be in town), we GOT IN!  I actually screamed and jumped up and down in Central Park after we hung up the phone.

Though I must say, Visa Concierge… your lack of tenacity has been NOTED. (But pretty awesome they would devote someone to dialing and redialing for us!)

We’ll have to tell you more about it when we return from 2 weeks of eating and drinking our faces off as we road trip from Seattle through Portland and California Wine Country (specifically Russian River Valley since we love their wines so much) at the end of June…

 

Oh right… I was writing about Bouchon!

So Bouchon is a great place to stop for a bite if you’re in the area or finding yourself famished in Columbus Circle. I think it’s a really lovely place for tourists to stop during a day of shopping and Central Park hopping.  We were in and out within 45 minutes and our meal was very satisfying.

Total Nom Points: 7 out of 10

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Portland, ME: David’s Opus 10

11 Apr

High on the list of places to try in Portland, Maine was David’s Opus 10. I have been hearing about it more and more since it opened this past November, and it made a few appearances on the Soup to Nuts: Maine food experts dish about their restaurant favorites article.

The menu is a 9-course Tasting Menu and Mike and I split a wine pairing between us (I drank more since Mike had to drive home).

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The Opus Ten part of the restaurant is actually behind the main restaurant, David’s. They do a small seating in an intimate space with beautiful draping along the ceiling. They also put a cart of goodies in the middle of all the tables.

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While we weren’t right at the window, our table afforded us a peak into the kitchen.

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And the table was beautifully set with a dark purple calla lilly (one of my faves!)

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Even the butter was beautifully styles (and very tasty with smoked salt on top).

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With a lovely variation of rolls and some very nice olive and balsamic to dip.

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Our first dish was not on the menu, but was certainly more substantial than your usual amuse bouche. Unfortunately, since it wasn’t written on the menu, I cannot recall the specifics beyond the fact that the meat was shaved off of a beautiful piece of hock on that middle table and tasted delicious with the cheese, olives, and bread.

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It was beautifully marbled and had a great tenderness to it.

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My first cocktail necessitated a quick froth (and tasted great).

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The first official menu item came out, and this was the dish that everyone in that article was raving about. Morel and exotic mushroom gratin with Mushroom and Madeira cream shooter.

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This had a very lovely mushroom flavor and was incredibly enjoyable, but I think I would have loved it a whole lot more if we hadn’t just had the mushroom of a lifetime at Local 188.

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Next came a butter poached lobster, risotto cake, citrus truffle miero greens.  This was very tasty, but I feel a bit like I might be struck by lightening for saying this… I don’t really “get” butter poaching lobster. It’s so much more flavorful when you just boil it in its shell and then dip it in butter. Somehow the poaching seems to take away some of the great lobster flavor.  (Sorry food gods)

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Our next dish was seared scallops with bowfin caviar and smoked salmon.  I really liked the addition of the matchstick potatoes in this. It created a really awesome contrast of textures and flavor without distracting from the delicious fish.

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I really enjoyed our next bite, quail egg ravioli with kale, hedgehog mushrooms, and foie gras butter nage [sic].

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I didn’t really taste the foie gras, but this was rich and creamy and very, very nice.

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Our next dish was a nice intermezzo with strawberry-basil sorbet with frozen vanilla and basil infused vodka.

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The vodka was actually poured overtop from a bottle that was frozen into a block.

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Even though I don’t love vodka, I really enjoyed this light palate cleanser. Very refreshing and a nice way to head into the rest of the meal.

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Grilled quail, foie gras medallion and “buttered” toast with cranberry-pear gastrique. Usually I find quail hardly worth the effort. A teeny bite without much flavor.

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This was a more substantial portion and it all went together well, and this time the foie had a really nice flavor that was prominent without being overpowering.

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Our last savory course was my favorite: Lamb saddle, lamb presse, sweet potato hash, and kale braise.

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There was an amazing crispy top on the one piece of lamb, and everything was cooked, flavored, and spiced perfectly.  Really great dish.

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Our dessert was Feuilletage “beignets” with peppered strawberry and Grand Marnier creme chantilly.  These were quite tasty. Not too dense and nice flavor.  I enjoyed the strawberry balanced with the pepper.

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Our final bites were chocolate, caramel nut bark, chambord and chocolate truffles, and pecan, orange and cranberry sandy.  I thought these were all pretty good, but nothing too outstanding.

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The truffles were my favorite of the trio.

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They also offered us some after dinner drinks, and Mike chose to have some Twenty Year Old Sandeman (which he really enjoyed).

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Overall, our meal was really great but I wouldn’t say it was outstanding.  Solid, great flavor, nice pacing, and great service. But there was no dish that really stuck out as a huge WOW.  It felt like a really nice, celebration of a meal, however, and is a fun way to spend an evening. I actually wonder if I would have enjoyed it more had we not had such a great experience at Local 188 the night right before. But as far as tasting menus go, I would say it was worth every penny (though they didn’t tell you how much any of the extras cost, which was mildly annoying). It’s a really nice treat right in Portland.

Total Nom Points: 8 out of 10

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Portland, ME: Local 188

9 Apr

We have really enjoyed the food scene in Portland, Maine, and I feel incredibly lucky that we have been able to spend 4 separate visits in Maine this past year (all these wedding trips have been awesome!)

When inquiring about any “must eats” we haven’t tried yet, Local 188 came up from a few different foodie friends.  They specialize in local ingredients, so their menu is printed anew each day.

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The space has a great feel to it. Very high ceilings, big windows, and room between tables.

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And I enjoyed the pretty sprigs of pussy willows on the tables.

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We started with some cocktails, and I very much enjoyed my Bergeron Sidecar with house infused fig & vanilla bean bourbon, cointreau, fresh lemon juice.

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The bread came out warm and it was like a mix between challah and a great crispy roll. A bit of salt and good olive oil on it. Very nice.

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We began with “the livers” which came in a shallot cream. This was rich and decadent. We asked for more bread to be able to soak up the awesome shallot cream, which had a faintly liver taste (in the best way).

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Next we tried the salad with winter squash and bourbon candied pecans, pickled onion, roasted apple, and blue cheese dressing. This tasted great but was a bit lacking in the squash department.

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And then we split the dry-aged rib eye filet, which came with smoked oyster mushrooms, russet potato hash, red-eye gravy, and maple and black garlic creme anglaise.

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The meat was cooked to perfect, and all the accoutrements were fantastic, but the smoked oyster mushrooms were other worldly. They had an intense smoky flavor, the richness of mushrooms, and were the perfect texture. The meal was very good, but these mushrooms were unbelievable. I love mushrooms and this beat them all.  If this isn’t on the menu regularly, they should make a dish entirely based around it. It is just that good. Thinking back on this taste at this moment leaves me with a feeling of great longing. If you don’t see this on the menu, ask for it. I’m telling you. It’s that good.

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Since we split everything, we still had some room for dessert.

So Mike chose the honey ricotta cheesecake, which came with a beautiful sugar decoration and had great flavor. The ricotta really made it light and the crust was really flavorful.

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I got the flourless chocolate torte with semi-sweet chocolate ganache. This was rich but not overwhelming. The caramel around it paired very nicely and I enjoyed every bite.

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Overall, we really enjoyed our meal at Local 188 and we were very happy that we were so strongly recommended to try it. All the food was very tasty and, by our NYC standards, very affordable for the quality and artisanship that went into it. You can tell the people that run this restaurant really care about the food they put out.

And those smoked mushrooms.

Glory be those smoked mushrooms.

The mushrooms alone got this review categorized in the Best of the Best list.

Total Nom Points: 8 out of 10

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Alder: The new restaurant from WD-50′s Wylie Dufresne

5 Apr

Mike and I are huge fans of the restaurant WD-50 and really appreciate the amazing ingenuity of chef Wylie Dufresne. We have done the incredible tasting menu at WD-50 twice now, and it currently ranks as the #2 restaurant of all time on our list.  So when Chef Wylie announced he was opening up a more casual (and more attainable) restaurant, Alder, we got excited. It was supposed to open earlier in March, and we made early plans to try to attend opening night, but a few delays had it opening the one weekend we were out of town (in Maine for pre-wedding errands). So we went today, a week and a day after opening night.

We heard there were long waits and long lines to get in, and no reservations. They are open Wednesday-Sunday starting at 6pm. While I am not a fan of lines, nor waiting, I got there around 5:30 and was already 4th on line.  Within the next 20 minutes, the line was a few dozen long.

At 6pm, the doors flung open and in we went.

Unfortunately, Mike’s cab was stuck in traffic so while I was in early enough, they kindly informed me that they don’t sit incomplete tables (which I totally understand, especially with that line!) but that I could wait at the bar. I explored the cocktail list and quickly decided on the Dr. Dave’s ‘Scrip Pad, especially because of the smoked maple.

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I really liked the uplight on the white wall throughout the restaurant, and it made an especially lovely ambiance at the bar with glass shelves.

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They served some of New York City’s finest tap water (FYI: NYC has some of the best water in the country. True story.)

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My drink had a rich, balanced flavor with just a hint of smoke. Very nice.

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Mike wasn’t too far behind, but by that time the wait was 30 minutes. There we tables, but they didn’t want to overwhelm the kitchen, so they were staggering the tables. We were more than happy to have a cocktail and relax a bit before our meal. So Mike got himself an Applethy that had vodka,‌ horseradish, and green apple. I hate both vodka and horseradish and I tasted this and instantly felt some burn… but then suddenly I got it. The sweet and the spicy. It was all somehow right. And what a beautiful cocktail.

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We sat just as we finished our cocktails. The inside is small but somehow not packed. And it wasn’t at all noisy. The ceiling is made of some nice, rustic wood beams.

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The waiter recommended 3 dishes per person, and informed us that the dishes go from lighter to heavier as you go down the menu.  I also told them about my allergy to peppers, and our waiter helped us go through the menu and find things I could order. He asked Mike if he would like to try the homemade cauliflower/peppers mix that they put on the table. Mike opted to try it and said it was quite good. (I was impressed that they asked our preference!)

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It was time for our second round of cocktails:

Zereshk Is History: gin, zereshk berry, grape-must, tonic
A nice balance of sweet with an adorable white birch straw
Shamrock Amigo: Irish whiskey, Mexican Fernet, Guinness Head
Creamy and really tasty

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We started with the Fried Cauliflower with lemon-almond puree, lardo, and cocoa. This was really, really good. I always enjoy cauliflower, but this was different and really well paired. The additions didn’t take away from the cauliflower and it had so many layers of flavor.

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We also tried the pub cheese (which seems to be getting a lot of press due to its purple hue) which had pistachio-fig brittle and Martin’s “potato chips.”

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The cheese was nice (though we both agreed it was reminiscent of Laughing Cow cheese… which is never a bad thing) but it was out of this world when paired with the pistachio-fig brittle. A little bit of salty, a little bit of sweet.

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We then tried the soft poached egg with sherry‌ consommé, mushroom, celery, and tarragon oil. This was the most disappointing point of the meal, unfortunately. I love eggs, and we have been impressed by the egg dishes at WD-50 in the past, but this was just lackluster.

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The egg was perfectly cooked though.

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Then again, perhaps we didn’t enjoy the egg so much because it was on the table at the same time as the masterpiece that was the Chicken Liver Toast (with cornbread,‌ grapefruit marmalade, and chicken skin). Holy whackamoley. This was insanely good. One of the best dishes I’ve ever had.  The grapefruit marmalade on the bottom was with shallots, and the sweet with citrus with corn bread with delicious liver with the crispy chicken skin. Wow. Just WOW.

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As we moved to our last two dishes, we tried the pork rib with saffron spaetzle, and green apple-celery root hash. The dish wasn’t what we were expecting. When I hear pork rib, I think a big slab o’ pig. This was more like a risotto of spaetzle with pieces of pork (which tasted like really good chunks of ham).  It was tasty.

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Our final dish was the Rye Pasta with shaved pastrami. This was like a pastrami and rye deli sandwich but made as a pasta. It was a really nice version of a classic dish we love, with great flavor and a classic mixture of ingredients.

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We decided to go for dessert and I immediately decided on the Banoffee Tart which was listed with carmelized‌ milk, sour cream,  and banana nougatine.  For me, this was a no-brainer. There were two other desserts, and one had peppers in it and the other was root beer (I hate root beer).  This dessert was certainly a great combo of banana and toffee flavors. It also had a sliver of dark chocolate in it. The crust was a bit hard to cut through, but besides that, a very nice dessert.

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But Mike ordered the Root Beer Pudding (which came with crunchy macadamia nuts on top). I instantly wrinkled my nose and my inner child said words like “ewww” and “yuck.”

Boy did I eat my words. This was a sensational dessert. Great creamy flavor with just a touch of root beer flavor (but not too root beer-y). The crispy, sweet, salty macadamia nuts on top were a fantastic flavor and texture contrast to the pudding. I was so impressed and so surprised by how much I enjoyed this dessert.

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And not to be without a little extra quirk, our check came out in a cut mini mug that reminded me of drinking hot cocoa while camping.

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At the end of our meal, Chef Wylie Dufresne was actually standing right behind us. He had popped in a few times during the meal and looked out at the house like he was kindly tending his flock. As we stood to leave, he immediately wished us well and said that he hoped we enjoyed our meal. We had a lovely exchange about with him about how much we loved that chicken liver and how we’re big fans of WD-50. He was humble and very appreciative of our compliments. I was kind of tickled (okay… full disclosure… totally excited) that we got to chat for a bit with Chef Wylie Dufresne!

While our meal at Alder was certainly a bit more reasonable than WD-50 (since that tasting menu is $225 each, so truly a special occasion type place). We got out of there spending about that amount but for both of us (including 2 rounds of good cocktails, 6 dishes, and 2 desserts). It’s not exactly a cheap meal, but it certainly is more casual and more within reach as compared to WD-50.

The food was really great, with that chicken liver being the stand-out. I would also have the cauliflower and rye pasta again in a heart beat, as well as that root beer dessert. I wouldn’t rush back to try the pork nor cheese dish a second time, and I certainly wouldn’t bother with the egg dish if I went back (when I go back!) But I would go back over and over and over and over for that liver. Mmmmm.

Total Nom Points: 8 out of 10

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Portland, Maine: In’finiti Fermentation and Distillation

2 Apr

We arrived in the main center of Portland, Maine less than 20 minutes after we deplaned at the airport, which included renting a car (flying to Maine actually takes less time than my commute to Connecticut. Sad but true.)

We parked on Commercial Street in the first spot we could find, and then turned around to see distillation equipment in the window of an unmarked building. It was new, and definitely not there when we had last visited in the fall.

Curiosity got the better of us and we crossed the street and peered in the windows. Imagine our surprise when we saw people staring back.  We walked in to find a fully operational restaurant. One that didn’t seem to have a name. We saw an “8″ on the floor and assumed it was called just, simply, “8.” We were not correct. We got the menu and realized that we were sitting in the brand new (less than 2 weeks after opening) In’finiti Fermentation and Distillation.

We later found out that it’s run by the same people that do Novare Res, which is probably one of the best beer bars (and beer gardens) I’ve ever been to. Just for the sheer options of awesome beers they have if nothing else.

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We got a couple beers (their own brews, which we found very drinkable but no stand outs) and chatted with the bartender who said that their food was like “elevated bar food.”

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I asked him what his favorite thing on the menu was, and he proceeded to list off about 15 things. I told him he was not making my choice any easier. We decided that we would come back that night for a proper meal.

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By the time we came back for dinner, it was packed and there was about a 45 minute wait (it wound up being nearly an hour, which the host apologized for many times, though we were having a fine time just drinking good beer at the bar).

I wound up drinking a Marshall Wharf Dopplebock, which I loved. It was creamy and chocolatey and was easy to sip while standing up to food. Great beer. (And local!)

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The aesthetic of the place was described by a Beer Advocate review as being “somewhat industrial with a touch of steampunk.” I can’t think of a better way to put it. And it is an aesthetic I really like. I was a big fan of the tables and stools being made from tree trunk slabs and the pipes holding up all the tables.

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They have a large collection of brewing and distilling equipment, all of which is visible behind big glass windows.

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And these gorgeous copper beauties up front that first caught our eye.

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Even the bathroom sinks were kind of awesome.

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Ok… so I was pretty enamored. But how would the food stand up?

We started with the lobster marscapone arancini (rice balls) with blood orange “paint”.

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They were quite tasty but we both wished for more lobster flavor. I liked the orange flavor which was mild, but Mike didn’t think it added to the dish. So we were a bit ehh on this.  Then again, you really can’t go wrong with crispy rice.

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The burger was getting a lot of buzz on various social media outlets we were looking at while awaiting our table, so Mike went for it. Luckily, they put the spicy stuff on the side so I could try the burger. It was, in fact, very good. The meat tasted like meat. A nice char, a bit of salt, and a great meaty flavor that was well complimented by the toppings. And the burger wasn’t too tightly packed. It was packed just enough to stay together. Great texture. The fries were good but not exactly the bliss others were raving about. But still good.

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I went with the Turf and Turf which came with braised short ribs and crispy pork belly, seared polenta, and fried cippolini onions.

This was an ode to meat cooked without fluff. Just meat. Pure and simple. I think that short ribs should be tender enough that you don’t need a knife, however, so these were a bit lacking and could have used some more slow cook time. But the meat just tasted good. Good like meat should taste.

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We really enjoyed the atmosphere of this place and the beer selection. The food was solid. Very good but I can’t say it was amazing. The burger was really good and I enjoyed everything we ate. I look forward to trying it again and trying their own beers, liquor, and bitters they are making in house. It’s a nice addition to (the already food saturated) Portland. I’m sure this will be a really great place to get a really great beer right on the main street by the water. And as the weather warms up, that deck they have will be lovely.

Total Nom Points: 7 out 10

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Chez Sardine

20 Mar 3photo 1

I’ve been reading about Chez Sardine for a bit, and it’s one of the “hot” restaurants that everyone keeps talking about. I heard it’s very hard to get a seat there, so when we stopped in one Sunday evening, I was shocked when they had 2 seats for us right at the bar. Shocked and excited! 1photo 1a

We started with some lovely cocktails that were perfectly mixed.

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And then looked up to notice that we had some company.

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I really loved sitting at the bar.

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Watching them prepare these works of art was a highlight of my (fantastic) meal.

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We began with an amuse bouche which had a bonito flake.

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We started with the east coast oyster with apple and chive oil. It was a very nice combination, but the more I have raw oysters with something, the more I realize that I just love a good ol’ raw oyster with nothing else.

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We next tried a special which was like a bumped up eggs benedict, made with a pork (pork belly or bacon… not sure) and a slow cooked egg on an English muffin with foie gras. This was rich and delicious.

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We were watching them make some things in the kitchen and one really caught our eye. So much so, that we added it to the order: Sushi rice balls. They were supposed to be with avocado, spicy mayo, and tobiko.  We asked if they would replace the spicy mayo, and they wound up giving us a yogurt sauce that was to die for.  It went so well with everything! And the rice balls come with pieces of crudo (sashimi?) with many different types of fish. All were great. And the rice balls themselves were heavenly. What could possibly be bad about fried balls of rice?

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We tried the brussels sprouts with apple and brown butter. I loved the apple flavor with the crisp of the brussels. These were perfectly cooked so they were soft but crispy.

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We next tried the roasted pork belly with slow cooked egg and cabbage (I can’t believe we had 2 pork and egg dishes… but it was great!). This had a brilliant smokey and sweet flavor, with a perfectly cooked egg. And the little onion crispies added perfect texture.

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Our meal ended with a lovely pana cotta (maybe?) with Rice Krispies on the house. I don’t remember the exact details, but I do remember commenting that it was a great way to end the meal with a perfect combination of textures.

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I absolutely loved our meal here. From start to finish, each dish was great and each had a unique quality about it that was really lovely. I would come back in a heartbeat and would love to try their brunch. Hopefully soon!

Total Nom Points: 7.5 out of 10

Total Nom Points: 7.5 out of 10

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Prestige Diner: New Providence, NJ

7 Mar

I grew up going to the Prestige Diner in New Providence, NJ after every important life event.  At that point in my life, “important life events” consisted mainly of dance recitals, play performances, group dates, and teen dances.

But I’ve stumbled back in a few times over the years, and while it has had a face lift a few times over, it is still almost exactly the same as it was 20 years ago. I’m pretty sure the hostesses and waitresses haven’t changed. And the menu certainly has not shrunk.

A classic Jersey diner can mean many things to many people, but there is one consistency across them all: hundreds of menu options. Just check out the menu for the Prestige. That’s 30 SECTIONS of food!

So it shouldn’t be at all surprising that the family ordered from many different sections.

Including this waffle with ice cream (I think it was actually the Oreo waffle!)

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A burger

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Some French Toast

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A side of bacon and eggs

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An open-faced chicken parm

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Some crispy Jersey fries (all you need is cheese and gravy to make some Disco Fries!)

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And a club sandwich

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As far as diners go, Prestige has got it all and it’s all pretty good quality. It’s everything a diner should be. No more. And no less. It’s not a gourmet meal by any regard, but it sure is a solid diner. With great memories.

Total Nom Points: 6.5 out of 10

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Blanca: Tasting Menu from Roberta’s

5 Mar

I have been hearing amazing things about Blanca for a while now.  Blanca is a small dining area behind Roberta’s in Bushwick.  We actually toured Roberta’s “garden” as a potential wedding venue, and enjoyed some of their pizza. It was great, but a bit too hipster for us.  But one thing that is never too hipster for us?

Going to Bushwick for a 25+ course taste menu at a kind of hidden dining area with 12 seats, behind a trendy pizza place, and with chefs cooking right in front of us.

They book up quickly and take reservations on the 1st day of each month. (Right now, March is fully booked and they plan on opening up their reservations on April 1st.) Mike managed to secure us a reservation for 4:45pm on March 2nd.  They ask you to be there at 4:30 and if you arrive late, you join the meal wherever it is. Not wanting to risk missing a single bite, and never knowing how long a trip on the L Train will take, we actually arrived at 4pm.  We looked around for a place to kill the time, but it’s a bit of no-man’s-land out there so we just decided to get a drink in their (heated) outdoor tent.

We walked in and were seated at the dining bar with 10 other dining adventurers.

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They quickly informed us that they do not allow photos or cell phones at the table. (Poo!) I do understand though. While I do love documenting my meals so I can share them here (and relive them forever), there is an element of surprise to a tasting menu like this that  I was glad to not know what to expect.  That said, I did write down each and every course so I could remember it.  So if you are thinking of going, please just check out this next picture (which I was allowed to take since it was before the food started coming out) and don’t read any further beyond the pic.

All you need to know is this: It was a great, epic experience. One I am very glad I had. Each and every bite was fantastic. There really wasn’t a stand-out dish (though we had some favorites) and we have been more wowed by other tasting menus, but it truly was a sensational meal and we agreed it was in the Top 5 of all time.

For $180 per person, it is not for the faint of wallet (I was thankful for a kind tax return and this was my self reward). And while the wine pairings looked great (we wound up participating half way through), for $92 per person, it’s a whole heck of a lot. But for a special occasion, it truly is very special.

Once again, if you are thinking of going and want to be surprised, I have no idea how much they change the meal every night, but I am about to post a spoiler list, so this is your moment to check out the kitchen picture and then come back for the next blog post.

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So without further ado, here is what we ate (or as much as I was able to record without taking more than a few seconds away from enjoying the meal) with a bit of commentary in parentheses.

We decided not to do the wine pairing at first, trying to be smart about it and not risk stumbling out of there just to get stuck finding our way home from Bushwick (for those that don’t know New York, we half kid about and half fear Bushwick. It’s not known as being a very safe neighborhood, but there are gems throughout it, like Roberta’s, that bring us there every once in a while). So we chose an Orange Wine (something we discovered as really awesome recently when we ate at Riverpark) called Donkey and Goat.  Orange wine is a very interesting wine. It is fermented with the skins on, so it is a more complex wine than most whites, yet not quite as rich as reds. It has a complex, “funky” flavor that we just love.  And this one hit it out of the park (and went well with every bite).

Immediately, the food started coming out, all in tiny little bowls with a bite or two in each (so while there were over 25 courses, we actually didn’t feel over-full in the least when we walked out)

  1. Caviar with parsnip. (A lovely bite to start. Nice blend of salty and sweet.)
  2. Glass shrimp with celery root and poppy seed. (The glass shrimp were slippery to chase around the bowl, but they were absolutely delicious and the slightly sweet poppy seeds on top really created a great flavor combination.)
  3. Maine sea urchin with yogurt and brussels sprout. (This was served with a chilled spoon, which was a nice attention to detail.  As soon as I took a bite, my first comment was “Thank you, Maine!”  This was an awesome combination of flavors, the the brussels sprout was a single charred leaf that was just a great flavor and perfect foil for the urchin. Awesome.)
  4. Veal sweet breads with lime. (I don’t know why thymus gland tastes so good, but it does. And this was cooked to absolute perfection with a slight crisp. The lime was fantastic with it.)
  5. A crudo course with 5 different types: Needlefish (ever so slightly fishy and a very nice bite), Geoduck with lardo (FINALLY I got to try geoduck. I have been so curious to try this for years but have yet to see it on a menu. It had a bit of the bite of calamari but without any chewiness. Very nice, sea flavor and the lardo complimented it well), Herring with horseradish (The horseradish was so mild that I didn’t even bat an eye, even though I am usually not a fan. The herring had great flavor.), Mackerel with apple (again, a winning combination), and Sea birch (I’m not too familiar with Sea birch, but after this lovely little bite, I hope to become better acquainted.
  6. Japanese wagyu beef with green garlic, turnip, and kohlrabi broth. (Intense umami flavor and great beef)
  7. Grilled oyster with celery root and sea grape. (At this point, the very nice and very knowledgeable sommelier gave us a taste of the wine that was on the pairing since it was Orange Wine, which we already identified as one of of favorites. I liked this wine but our Donkey & Goat was even better.  It did go very well with the grilled oyster, however, this was my least favorite bite of the tasting. Don’t get me wrong, it was very, very good. But I find grilling oysters just takes away from them a bit. Give me a raw oyster any day!)
  8. Tofu with apple broth and grilled traviso (like radicchio) and tuna flake. (The dried tuna was kept in a box used for making bonito and the flakes of dried tuna were very nice on this dish. But that apple broth. Holy cow! It was like someone liquefied the freshest, most flavorful apple and gave me a spoon to eat it with.  It was great with the mild tofu. Very memorable bite.)
  9. Squid with shiso salsa verde and tangerine. (Mike’s version had peppers, so I got a different version without it. Now that I’m remember that, I wonder if it was really shisito salsa verde rather than shiso. Either way, it was a very, very good bite, both with and without the peppers.)
  10. Lovage, cardoons, kumquats, and strawberries. (Two things I hadn’t heard of, but cardoons are in the artichoke family and had a mild resemblance in flavor that I really liked. This was a very nice palate cleanser.)
  11. Pine nut agnolotti with black truffle. (Agnolotti are like small ravioli. I loved the pine nut flavor in this and add that to the black truffle and you have a really flavorful dish.)
  12. Pici with squab. (Pici is a very fat spaghetti. It was very nice with the squab.)
  13. Enuja ravioli and Orecchiette with goat meat ragu. (I have n0 idea what “enuja” is, so I assume I did not write it down correctly. It was also spicy, so I couldn’t have it. Instead, I got the orecchiette with goat and it was fan-freakin’-tastic.  The goat was really delicious.)
  14. Salt roasted potatoes with watercress juice, buttermilk, and chrysanthemum leaf. (These potatoes were awesome. I think there were different kinds, like a blue and a yam or sweet potato. They were crispy and soft at the same time.)
  15. King crab with plankton butter sauce. (Holy wow. King crab is so good and this was just a perfectly sourced, perfectly prepared leg. Totally awesome.) **At this point in the meal we were sad that our wine was gone, and we were easily arm twisted into joining the pairing (which included sake, wine, and beer… though we had missed all the beer ones). And by arm twisted I mean they asked and we said yes)**
  16. Celery root gelato with lime gelee paired with Summer sake. (This was a palate cleanser and was really, really good. I love when gelato is made out of more savory elements, and the celery root was a great, slightly sweet ingredient that really wowed us.)
  17. Pork with bergamont and 3 radishes: daikon, watermelon radish, and black radish paired with Domaine dela Tournelle.  (The red wine was from an area near Burgundy and paired insanely well with this pork dish. There was an incredible saltiness on the pork that brought out the flavor in a really satisfying and intense way.)
  18. Butter (that is made on premises with a yogurt culture) and assorted breads: baguette, wheat, buckwheat walnut, and semi white (rustic bread).  (You could taste the salt crystals in the butter, which is one of my favorite things in the world. There are few better things in the world together than butter and salt. Add this to 4 really awesomely baked breads, and you have a happy camper in me!)
  19. Chicken with polenta and nasturtium paired with Vin Jaune (sp?). (Unfortunately, I missed the description of the chicken. Fortunately, I didn’t miss this bite. It was insanely good and one of the most memorable of the entire evening. There was a good amount of crispy skin that made this already good chicken dish sensational. The wine was a white wine that was like a cross between sherry and white wine that was aged in barrels for 6 years with an open vat fermentation process and a veil of yeast. What all that means is that even though it smelled like sherry, it is not fortified like sherry is, which probably led to the slightly milder yet still very enjoyable flavor)
  20. Meyer lemon marmalade with meyer lemon ice paired with Castello dei Rampolla. (This was a palate cleanser. Probably due to the amount of wine at this point, I remember almost nothing about it. But I did write down that the wine was from Tuscany)
  21. Beef with persimmon, wild onion, and miner’s lettuce paired with Vincotto (I have no idea what vincotto is. I wrote it down as the “grape” and I think it was the sauce rather than the wine, but not promises on that.  The beef dish had a very memorable fatty piece that was salty and awesome. Very rich and very, very good.)
  22. Cheese course paired with Ronchi di Cialla OR Veruzzo. (The Ronchi wine was desserty and sweet, very honey-like and with a really awesome flavor. I LOVED this wine. It was sweet without being too much and even our neighbor who was a self-proclaimed dessert wine hater liked this one. Then we also had a Verduzzo which was nice, but I do not recall which one actually went with this course. (WHOOPS) The cheese itself was a la tur cheese with yuzu and we were informed to “scoop it from the bottom.” I have very little recollection of what exactly it was, but I do remember enjoying it.)  To add some confusion to the whole which goes with what (silly drunk brain), we were then served a Yellow Tea (The tea was from China and was like green tea but they let the leaves oxidize more and then stop the oxidation process by cooking them in a wok,)
  23. Cara cara orange sherbert with rye berries and rye foam paired with a Moscato di asti.  (I loved the way the rye berries added a nice richness and crisp to the sherbert and the sparkling Moscato was a really like pair with it.)
  24. Sunchoke cream with sunchoke chips, apple ice, sunflower seed brittle powder with Alcyon Tannat Dessert Wine. (This was a fuckin’ awesome dessert. At this moment, Cat Stevens’ Wild World started playing. And it was just perfect for that moment. Our entire corner started singing along while everyone did their own version of the happy belly dance to this dessert and wine.  This was my favorite bite of the meal. Great way to end. And the Alcyon was from Uruguay. I really want to try this again!)
  25. Hemp Seed Macarons. (These had a slightly green taste that really made for an excellent last bite. And I just love me a good macaron!)

WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW! What a meal.  It was really, truly amazing.  And even though there were 25 courses, we had wrapped up in under 3 hours. Every bite was enjoyable and it was a great meal adventure.  The entire Cat Stevens album continued to play as we wrapped up, and it was like a nostalgic journey that a lot of the diners commented on enjoying.

We just revisited our Top 10 Noms of all time, and when we looked it all over, we slotted Blanca in at #5 (just barely below Blue Hill at Stone Barns and above Bottega in Napa Valley). For reference here is the Top 10 as of March 2013:

    1. Eleven Madison Park
    2. WD-50
    3. Colicchio and Sons
    4. Blue Hill at Stone Barns
    5. Blanca
    6. Bottega (Napa)
    7. Momofuku Ko
    8. Le Bernadin
    9. Daniel
    10. Ai Fiori

Even though we tried not to at first, the fact that we were pretty drunk by the end definitely made for the last few dishes being a wee bit foggy. But still great. The service was also really fantastic, and we especially admired the sommelier who had quite the amazing pairings and knowledge about each and every sip.

Total Nom Points: 9 out of 10

9 out of 10

 

And we really loved both of these wines and I would like to try them again in the very near future (maybe when a bit less inebriated):

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