As Chef Bill and I sat at a table chatting about his concept and menu, I couldn’t help but look down with a hint of sadness at the tater tots we ordered. I love tater tots, but they just seemed to get more and more boring as Bill described his menu. Each dish sounded more delicious than the previous one. He’s using molecular gastronomy to elevate the food and to make it downright fun. Here are some highlights that got me especially excited:
Appetizers/Salads:
Bone Marrow Sliders with Tomato Dust on Brioche: Chef Bill is looking forward to hand selecting the fats and the meats that go into his slider and burger dishes. Usually, you choose a well marbled cut of meat and you go with the ratio of fat that is organically within that cut. Chef Bill plans to combine a lean cut of meat and grind it up with the right amount of a delicious fat: bone marrow. He set about solving the burger “leaking” problem with this dish: No matter how fast you get from kitchen to table, some fat and blood leaks onto the bun or onto the plate. His solution: he will be making an acetate sheet from mustard and using the broiler to shrink the sheet around the burger to seal in all the juices (he affectionately called this method “Shrinky Dinking”). He plans on making his own ketchup and turning it into a dust, and making his own pickles, liquefying them, and then spherifying (making a liquid into a sphere that resembles caviar) them so they will be an intense punch of pickle flavor as you bite in.
Seared Duck, Butternut Squash Soup with Pear Parisian in Glass: He plans to serve the squash soup in a shallow bowl with soft slices of duck breast fanned out on the side of the plate. He will then make pear balls and dip them in a gelee that includes star anise and Asian 5 spice. The soup will be dotted with these balls so that they glisten like marbles in the bowl. (Since the restaurant will be opening in May, it may not be butternut squash due to seasonality, but this is TBD)
Chipotle Pork Belly with Pickled Parsnips and Smoked Paprika Fondant Over Parmesan Polenta: The plan is to cure the pork belly and finish it with a chipotle glaze that resemebles a mole. It will add a smokey, spicy heat to cut through the richness of the pork belly. He will use fondant (that is somewhat sweet) made with smoked paprika (so it’s red) that will wrap an über rich and simple polenta in a bundle. It will be topped with short rib and finished with pickled parsnips to cut through the richness. (To say that I am sad that this will be something I can never eat is an understatement. To all you pepper eaters, I can’t wait for a full review).
Seared Foie Gras Over Pear Panna Cotta with Port Gelatin and Bitter Chocolate Biscotti: Foie gras will be seared and served with a pear panna cotta that retains the “grittyness” of the pear so it tastes like, well… a pear. He will wrap the pear panna cotta in a port reduction gelee so that it has a red outside and white inside, like a poached pear. It will be finished with a bitter chocolate biscotti with pistachios. This will be a great combination of sweet, bitter, and buttery flavors.
Waldorf Salad: Because what says 1920’s better than Waldorf Salad? Dressing pearls, spherified apples macerated in brandy, frozen grapes, and black toasted walnuts will bring it into this decade (if not the future).
Entrées:
Seared Skate, Caper Powder, Celeryroot Mousseline and Crisp Lemon Cured Sweetbreads: I have known for a while that Bill has a “thing” for skate. It’s not a popular fish, but one thing that we agree on is that it should be. It will be seared so it’s crispy and melts in your mouth. It will be served with dehydrated caper dust, celery root mousseline, and sweet breads cured with lemon and fennel pollen and then fried. A microgreen will be included to add a fresh and “living aspect” to the plate to balance the rich, gamy flavors.
Lamb Loin with Pistachio Crusted Chevre and Red Wine Braised Cabbage: Farm raised lamb loin (from the Berkshires) will be seared with salt and pepper to bring out its natural flavors. It will be served with a lamb demi-glace, braised red wine cabbage (to add some tartness), clove and bay leaf. It will be served with goat cheese that will be freeze dried in pistachio dust so when you break into it it will emulsify the cabbage demi-glace to create a vichyssoise sauce once you cut into it.
Roasted Monkfish Loin, Hazelnut/Prosciutto Brittle, Double Stout/Coconut Cream: The monkfish will be crusted with fennel pollen and roasted. It will be served with a hazelnut, prociutto brittle so it is crispy with a toasted hazelnut flavor. The stout cream is made with creme fraiche, Belhaven stout reduction, and Malibu Rum (to avoid coconut allergies).
Braised Beef Shortrib with Spiced Tomato Bourbon Jam and Potato Puree: The short rib will be cooked with the sous-vide technique and served with a potato puree (because, in the words of Chef Bill, “You just don’t fuck with that!”) It will be served with a spiced tomato bourbon jam and then a shot of bourbon will be added at the end to give it that slight burn.
Duck Confit, Brie and Avocado Brick, Cucumber/Mango flute, and Apricot/Curry Sauce: The duck confit will be cooked in a classic way, but everything served with it will be anything but classic. Brie and avocado will be freeze dried and compressed into a layered brick to give a textured bite (like a tough marshmallow). It will be served with a cone of sliced mango and cucumber on the side which will be filled with an apricot curry sauce. The sauce is cooked by “burning the shit” out of onions until they become like charcoal, then roasting the apricots on top of them. It will be colorful and fun, but based on fundamental ingredients.
Steamed Mussels with Grilled Rosemary and Black Garlic Over Pappardelle: Of all the items on the menu, THIS has me the most excited. The menu item that originally made me fall in love with Bill’s cooking was the mussels he served at Albert Hall Tavern that came with grilled rosemary and black garlic. I wanted to bathe in that sauce… it was so good. We would always ask for extra bread to sop up that amazing sauce. So the idea of serving this over pappardelle (my favorite pasta) sounds like a dream come true. As Bill said, “it’s sex in a bowl.” He commented that there are a few dishes that you look back on and think to yourself “yeah… that one worked” and give yourself a good pat on the back. He says he has probably created thousands of dishes but this one really stands out. (I CANNOT WAIT!)
He plans on adding more vegetarian dishes and he recognized that all restaurants had some type of fruit cocktail on their menu in the 1920’s. He plans to do his own spin on this with some unique flavors like avocado and tropical fruits.
Chef Bill is not a dessert person, so he will be bringing in a pastry chef. It’s extra cost, but he wants to throw everything he can into this restaurant so it’s the best it can be. He plans on having foods that came into fashion in the 1920’s be especially prevalent on the dessert menu.
I absolutely cannot wait to try every last bite.
