Tag Archives: tasting menu

Honeymoon: Seattle- Canlis

10 Jul

Anyone who has been reading this blog for a while knows that we are huge Top Chef Sluts.  So it should come as no surprise that one of the restaurants we first looked into upon planning our honeymoon that was starting in Seattle was Canlis, a restaurant prominently featured on Episode 4 of Top Chef Season 10 (Seattle).

We were intrigued by the fact that it had been around for 50 years and then as we read more, we knew it was a primary destination for dining.  Chef Jason Franey was a finalist for the James Beard Award for Best Chef Northwest (stay tuned for our Portland Honeymoon write-up coming soon to read about who actually won) and the executive chef won Cochon 555 Seattle this year.

Upon arrival, we were immediately greeted by name (mind readers) and wished a very warm congratulations on our honeymoon.  They asked us about the details of our honeymoon trip (Mike didn’t even remember telling them about our road trip).  They informed us that our table was not quite ready but we were welcome to get a drink at the bar, next to the (very good) piano player. Our drinks were not only tasty, they were also absolutely beautiful.

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The flower petals really made it look that much prettier.

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We were sat the moment our drinks came out.  The dining room is timeless.

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With a nice view of the water (even in the fog and pouring rain).

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We sat down to a lovely note from the Canlis family and two glasses of champagne on the house.

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We hear the menu changed recently, ever so slightly. Here was the menu when we were there at the end of June, 2013:

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We decided on the 4 Course menu because we both had heard great things about the duck and wanted the opportunity to try that.

We started with 3 amuse bouche (bouches? is bouche a plural?)

From left to right, it was a morel mushroom tart (nice, rich flavor), black olive coronet with salmon mousse, pickled rutabaga, and wasabi tobiko (which was packed with flavor and textures that mixed together perfectly), and a fried egg yolk, which we were advised had a liquid center “So don’t try to take a bite. You have to commit.” And commit we did.  Great flavor and a nice middle ground between a hard boiled egg (which would be way too solid when fried) and a poached egg (which would be too runny).

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The holders were also lovely and showed off each bite as if it were artwork.

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The wine was a local Pinot Noir (from the Willamette Valley in Oregon, a place we were soon to visit) that the sommelier picked (and we really loved).

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Our first of 4 courses arrived:

Mike chose the smoked Copper River salmon which came with yellow and purple potatoes. (Salmon is very popular in this part of the country and was on nearly every menu. I believe it was also salmon season, though every day could be salmon season up there for all we know.  Funny thing… I usually don’t like salmon, but every time I had it up in the Pacific Northwest, I really loved it.  Totally different flavor and none of that gross salmony-fishiness I hate).

The salmon was smoky and light but filled with flavor.  Both Mike I said that we wished there were more (not because the portion was small, which it should be with a multi-course tasting menu) but because it was so good.

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I chose the foie gras with cherry beet puree, cocoa brioche, dehydrated milk with pistachio.

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The brioche had a great crunch and everything combined perfectly.  There was tarta and sweet to pair with the rich and dense foie and brioche.  One of the best preparations of foie gras I’ve had.

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As we were awaiting our next course, we noticed a manager-like looking man come to our side of the restaurant and look around as if observing his flock.  Mike went totally out of character and struck up a conversation with him, only to find out that he is one of the owners (and grandsons of the original owners), Brian Canlis.  Brian was warm and genuine and we instantly liked him.  We had a quick discussion about where we were from and Brian asked us our favorite restaurant, to which we answered in unison, Eleven Madison Park. He got very excited at this and asked us if we knew about the connection between Canlis and Eleven Madison Park.  We did not, so he told us he went to Cornell with William Guidara, business partner in Eleven Madison Park.  (And now the presence of a special Ithaca Beer on the EMP menu made much more sense!)  I told him I went to Ithaca College and we had a great moment reminiscing about the lovely town of Ithaca, NY.  Brian then excitedly asked if we ordered the duck and when we confirmed we had, he said he thought it beat EMP’s duck (sadly, we didn’t try the duck, we chose the beef when we were at EMP, but the friendly competition was quite adorable). He then kindly excused himself and we went back to our meal, but not before the waiter was kind enough to take a lovely picture.

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For course two, Mike chose the famous Canlis Salad (which is prepared table-side, but only for bigger parties from what we observed). This was one great salad.  The inclusion of mint was fantastic without being overpowering. It tasted like it was all picked fresh moments before hitting our plate.

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I went with the pork belly, which came with an almond vanilla sauce with huckleberry.  The pork belly could not have been cooked better. The creamy fat, the hammy pork, the crispy top.  A great balance of flavors and textures with a slightly sweet sauce to compliment the pork and bring it all together

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And then they showed us the duck.

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A few minutes later, it came out fully prepared and ready to be tasted. They had carved up the breast (which included seeds a black peppercorns) and made a duck leg confit croquet, which they plated separately for each of us.  There was also an orange marmalade, fennel puree, and bruleed onion.  The flowers were grown in their garden.

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The crispiness of the seeds on the duck were great, and I really loved the way the spicy black peppercorns mixed with the orange marmalade, which was tart yet sweet.  I was enamored by the marmalade, but, sadly, Mike is not a fan of orange/marmalade/tart sauces so it wasn’t his cup of tea. Luckily, since it was all separate, he could enjoy it just fine without while I lapped it up.

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Our eyes were much bigger than our bellies, and we ordered an additional twice baked potato when we first put the order in.  As we finished up the duck, we realized that the potato never came. We were commenting about how this was a very good thing because we were FAR too full and still had dessert to go, but just as we were concluding that, a huge dish of fries came out and our very concerned waitress. She informed us that she forgot to put the potato in and it takes a bit of time to prepare, so as soon as she realized her mistake she put it in and had them make us fries (which are much faster to prepare) to make sure we had something.  Service was impeccable until this moment, and I always say that mistakes happen, but it’s about how you fix them.  Talk about a fix! Not only immediate response but a solution of fries to boot.

We informed her that we were just too full so we didn’t need the potato and we requested she wrap up the fries. Though not before trying a couple, and WOW! What fries!  Sadly, we didn’t have a fridge in our room so the fries couldn’t be saved.  (I nearly cried as I set them in the trash the next morning.)

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But I couldn’t be too sad for very long since the dessert menu was in front of us.

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Mike chose the Mille-Feuille and I chose the Pistachio Génoise.

The Mille-Feuille was absolutely delicious with lots of textures and flavors.

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But I really loved my pistachio dessert. The cherries on it were just fantastic.

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The pieces of gelee were great.

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And the crisp of the pistachio was great with the flavorful ice cream.

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And we loved the extra touch of writing “Congratulations” on both our plates.

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We were also given macarons in two flavors: negroni and apple pie.

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They were both great but if I could spend the rest of my life eating those apple pie macarons, I would be a happy lady.

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And just when we thought they couldn’t make the meal any better, they gave us a chocolate breakfast brioche for the following morning (which wound up being absolutely sensational, even without a lick of butter to add… we just tore into it and it started our last morning in Seattle perfectly). I absolutely love this touch. It leaves such a great lasting impression on a diner to give them something to eat from the restaurant the next morning.  Classy.

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The entire meal was special. Absolutely special.

The service was some of the best we have ever seen, but not in a mechanical way like some fine restaurants seem to specialize in. This service was warm, personal, and made us feel like we were the only ones in the entire restaurant.  And just as we were wrapping up to leave, Brian came back over to see how our meal was (and of course we gushed) and then he offered us a tour of the kitchen. (BUT OF COURSE!)

He excitedly showed us pictures of his family and the restaurant. One was of opening night and had all the women of the day wearing hats, drinking whiskey, and smoking cigarettes.  Such a time-specific moment.  He was kind and warm and told us he just enjoyed having some drinks at the bar and being in the restaurant that evening.  You could tell he absolutely loves this place and what he does. We talked about how much we envied that he got to grow up and come to own such a place. His enthusiasm was infectious.  He was excited that we were so excited to be there. For half a moment, we felt like part of the family.

And boy what a family that would be to be part of!

I would say that if you’re in Seattle, be sure to go here… but the truth of it is that you should just be sure to go here. Make a special trip to Seattle.  Canlis is one of the best of the best of the best.

Total Nom Points: 9 out of 10

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Portland, ME: David’s Opus 10

11 Apr

High on the list of places to try in Portland, Maine was David’s Opus 10. I have been hearing about it more and more since it opened this past November, and it made a few appearances on the Soup to Nuts: Maine food experts dish about their restaurant favorites article.

The menu is a 9-course Tasting Menu and Mike and I split a wine pairing between us (I drank more since Mike had to drive home).

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The Opus Ten part of the restaurant is actually behind the main restaurant, David’s. They do a small seating in an intimate space with beautiful draping along the ceiling. They also put a cart of goodies in the middle of all the tables.

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While we weren’t right at the window, our table afforded us a peak into the kitchen.

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And the table was beautifully set with a dark purple calla lilly (one of my faves!)

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Even the butter was beautifully styles (and very tasty with smoked salt on top).

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With a lovely variation of rolls and some very nice olive and balsamic to dip.

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Our first dish was not on the menu, but was certainly more substantial than your usual amuse bouche. Unfortunately, since it wasn’t written on the menu, I cannot recall the specifics beyond the fact that the meat was shaved off of a beautiful piece of hock on that middle table and tasted delicious with the cheese, olives, and bread.

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It was beautifully marbled and had a great tenderness to it.

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My first cocktail necessitated a quick froth (and tasted great).

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The first official menu item came out, and this was the dish that everyone in that article was raving about. Morel and exotic mushroom gratin with Mushroom and Madeira cream shooter.

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This had a very lovely mushroom flavor and was incredibly enjoyable, but I think I would have loved it a whole lot more if we hadn’t just had the mushroom of a lifetime at Local 188.

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Next came a butter poached lobster, risotto cake, citrus truffle miero greens.  This was very tasty, but I feel a bit like I might be struck by lightening for saying this… I don’t really “get” butter poaching lobster. It’s so much more flavorful when you just boil it in its shell and then dip it in butter. Somehow the poaching seems to take away some of the great lobster flavor.  (Sorry food gods)

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Our next dish was seared scallops with bowfin caviar and smoked salmon.  I really liked the addition of the matchstick potatoes in this. It created a really awesome contrast of textures and flavor without distracting from the delicious fish.

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I really enjoyed our next bite, quail egg ravioli with kale, hedgehog mushrooms, and foie gras butter nage [sic].

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I didn’t really taste the foie gras, but this was rich and creamy and very, very nice.

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Our next dish was a nice intermezzo with strawberry-basil sorbet with frozen vanilla and basil infused vodka.

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The vodka was actually poured overtop from a bottle that was frozen into a block.

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Even though I don’t love vodka, I really enjoyed this light palate cleanser. Very refreshing and a nice way to head into the rest of the meal.

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Grilled quail, foie gras medallion and “buttered” toast with cranberry-pear gastrique. Usually I find quail hardly worth the effort. A teeny bite without much flavor.

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This was a more substantial portion and it all went together well, and this time the foie had a really nice flavor that was prominent without being overpowering.

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Our last savory course was my favorite: Lamb saddle, lamb presse, sweet potato hash, and kale braise.

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There was an amazing crispy top on the one piece of lamb, and everything was cooked, flavored, and spiced perfectly.  Really great dish.

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Our dessert was Feuilletage “beignets” with peppered strawberry and Grand Marnier creme chantilly.  These were quite tasty. Not too dense and nice flavor.  I enjoyed the strawberry balanced with the pepper.

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Our final bites were chocolate, caramel nut bark, chambord and chocolate truffles, and pecan, orange and cranberry sandy.  I thought these were all pretty good, but nothing too outstanding.

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The truffles were my favorite of the trio.

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They also offered us some after dinner drinks, and Mike chose to have some Twenty Year Old Sandeman (which he really enjoyed).

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Overall, our meal was really great but I wouldn’t say it was outstanding.  Solid, great flavor, nice pacing, and great service. But there was no dish that really stuck out as a huge WOW.  It felt like a really nice, celebration of a meal, however, and is a fun way to spend an evening. I actually wonder if I would have enjoyed it more had we not had such a great experience at Local 188 the night right before. But as far as tasting menus go, I would say it was worth every penny (though they didn’t tell you how much any of the extras cost, which was mildly annoying). It’s a really nice treat right in Portland.

Total Nom Points: 8 out of 10

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Blanca: Tasting Menu from Roberta’s

5 Mar

I have been hearing amazing things about Blanca for a while now.  Blanca is a small dining area behind Roberta’s in Bushwick.  We actually toured Roberta’s “garden” as a potential wedding venue, and enjoyed some of their pizza. It was great, but a bit too hipster for us.  But one thing that is never too hipster for us?

Going to Bushwick for a 25+ course taste menu at a kind of hidden dining area with 12 seats, behind a trendy pizza place, and with chefs cooking right in front of us.

They book up quickly and take reservations on the 1st day of each month. (Right now, March is fully booked and they plan on opening up their reservations on April 1st.) Mike managed to secure us a reservation for 4:45pm on March 2nd.  They ask you to be there at 4:30 and if you arrive late, you join the meal wherever it is. Not wanting to risk missing a single bite, and never knowing how long a trip on the L Train will take, we actually arrived at 4pm.  We looked around for a place to kill the time, but it’s a bit of no-man’s-land out there so we just decided to get a drink in their (heated) outdoor tent.

We walked in and were seated at the dining bar with 10 other dining adventurers.

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They quickly informed us that they do not allow photos or cell phones at the table. (Poo!) I do understand though. While I do love documenting my meals so I can share them here (and relive them forever), there is an element of surprise to a tasting menu like this that  I was glad to not know what to expect.  That said, I did write down each and every course so I could remember it.  So if you are thinking of going, please just check out this next picture (which I was allowed to take since it was before the food started coming out) and don’t read any further beyond the pic.

All you need to know is this: It was a great, epic experience. One I am very glad I had. Each and every bite was fantastic. There really wasn’t a stand-out dish (though we had some favorites) and we have been more wowed by other tasting menus, but it truly was a sensational meal and we agreed it was in the Top 5 of all time.

For $180 per person, it is not for the faint of wallet (I was thankful for a kind tax return and this was my self reward). And while the wine pairings looked great (we wound up participating half way through), for $92 per person, it’s a whole heck of a lot. But for a special occasion, it truly is very special.

Once again, if you are thinking of going and want to be surprised, I have no idea how much they change the meal every night, but I am about to post a spoiler list, so this is your moment to check out the kitchen picture and then come back for the next blog post.

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So without further ado, here is what we ate (or as much as I was able to record without taking more than a few seconds away from enjoying the meal) with a bit of commentary in parentheses.

We decided not to do the wine pairing at first, trying to be smart about it and not risk stumbling out of there just to get stuck finding our way home from Bushwick (for those that don’t know New York, we half kid about and half fear Bushwick. It’s not known as being a very safe neighborhood, but there are gems throughout it, like Roberta’s, that bring us there every once in a while). So we chose an Orange Wine (something we discovered as really awesome recently when we ate at Riverpark) called Donkey and Goat.  Orange wine is a very interesting wine. It is fermented with the skins on, so it is a more complex wine than most whites, yet not quite as rich as reds. It has a complex, “funky” flavor that we just love.  And this one hit it out of the park (and went well with every bite).

Immediately, the food started coming out, all in tiny little bowls with a bite or two in each (so while there were over 25 courses, we actually didn’t feel over-full in the least when we walked out)

  1. Caviar with parsnip. (A lovely bite to start. Nice blend of salty and sweet.)
  2. Glass shrimp with celery root and poppy seed. (The glass shrimp were slippery to chase around the bowl, but they were absolutely delicious and the slightly sweet poppy seeds on top really created a great flavor combination.)
  3. Maine sea urchin with yogurt and brussels sprout. (This was served with a chilled spoon, which was a nice attention to detail.  As soon as I took a bite, my first comment was “Thank you, Maine!”  This was an awesome combination of flavors, the the brussels sprout was a single charred leaf that was just a great flavor and perfect foil for the urchin. Awesome.)
  4. Veal sweet breads with lime. (I don’t know why thymus gland tastes so good, but it does. And this was cooked to absolute perfection with a slight crisp. The lime was fantastic with it.)
  5. A crudo course with 5 different types: Needlefish (ever so slightly fishy and a very nice bite), Geoduck with lardo (FINALLY I got to try geoduck. I have been so curious to try this for years but have yet to see it on a menu. It had a bit of the bite of calamari but without any chewiness. Very nice, sea flavor and the lardo complimented it well), Herring with horseradish (The horseradish was so mild that I didn’t even bat an eye, even though I am usually not a fan. The herring had great flavor.), Mackerel with apple (again, a winning combination), and Sea birch (I’m not too familiar with Sea birch, but after this lovely little bite, I hope to become better acquainted.
  6. Japanese wagyu beef with green garlic, turnip, and kohlrabi broth. (Intense umami flavor and great beef)
  7. Grilled oyster with celery root and sea grape. (At this point, the very nice and very knowledgeable sommelier gave us a taste of the wine that was on the pairing since it was Orange Wine, which we already identified as one of of favorites. I liked this wine but our Donkey & Goat was even better.  It did go very well with the grilled oyster, however, this was my least favorite bite of the tasting. Don’t get me wrong, it was very, very good. But I find grilling oysters just takes away from them a bit. Give me a raw oyster any day!)
  8. Tofu with apple broth and grilled traviso (like radicchio) and tuna flake. (The dried tuna was kept in a box used for making bonito and the flakes of dried tuna were very nice on this dish. But that apple broth. Holy cow! It was like someone liquefied the freshest, most flavorful apple and gave me a spoon to eat it with.  It was great with the mild tofu. Very memorable bite.)
  9. Squid with shiso salsa verde and tangerine. (Mike’s version had peppers, so I got a different version without it. Now that I’m remember that, I wonder if it was really shisito salsa verde rather than shiso. Either way, it was a very, very good bite, both with and without the peppers.)
  10. Lovage, cardoons, kumquats, and strawberries. (Two things I hadn’t heard of, but cardoons are in the artichoke family and had a mild resemblance in flavor that I really liked. This was a very nice palate cleanser.)
  11. Pine nut agnolotti with black truffle. (Agnolotti are like small ravioli. I loved the pine nut flavor in this and add that to the black truffle and you have a really flavorful dish.)
  12. Pici with squab. (Pici is a very fat spaghetti. It was very nice with the squab.)
  13. Enuja ravioli and Orecchiette with goat meat ragu. (I have n0 idea what “enuja” is, so I assume I did not write it down correctly. It was also spicy, so I couldn’t have it. Instead, I got the orecchiette with goat and it was fan-freakin’-tastic.  The goat was really delicious.)
  14. Salt roasted potatoes with watercress juice, buttermilk, and chrysanthemum leaf. (These potatoes were awesome. I think there were different kinds, like a blue and a yam or sweet potato. They were crispy and soft at the same time.)
  15. King crab with plankton butter sauce. (Holy wow. King crab is so good and this was just a perfectly sourced, perfectly prepared leg. Totally awesome.) **At this point in the meal we were sad that our wine was gone, and we were easily arm twisted into joining the pairing (which included sake, wine, and beer… though we had missed all the beer ones). And by arm twisted I mean they asked and we said yes)**
  16. Celery root gelato with lime gelee paired with Summer sake. (This was a palate cleanser and was really, really good. I love when gelato is made out of more savory elements, and the celery root was a great, slightly sweet ingredient that really wowed us.)
  17. Pork with bergamont and 3 radishes: daikon, watermelon radish, and black radish paired with Domaine dela Tournelle.  (The red wine was from an area near Burgundy and paired insanely well with this pork dish. There was an incredible saltiness on the pork that brought out the flavor in a really satisfying and intense way.)
  18. Butter (that is made on premises with a yogurt culture) and assorted breads: baguette, wheat, buckwheat walnut, and semi white (rustic bread).  (You could taste the salt crystals in the butter, which is one of my favorite things in the world. There are few better things in the world together than butter and salt. Add this to 4 really awesomely baked breads, and you have a happy camper in me!)
  19. Chicken with polenta and nasturtium paired with Vin Jaune (sp?). (Unfortunately, I missed the description of the chicken. Fortunately, I didn’t miss this bite. It was insanely good and one of the most memorable of the entire evening. There was a good amount of crispy skin that made this already good chicken dish sensational. The wine was a white wine that was like a cross between sherry and white wine that was aged in barrels for 6 years with an open vat fermentation process and a veil of yeast. What all that means is that even though it smelled like sherry, it is not fortified like sherry is, which probably led to the slightly milder yet still very enjoyable flavor)
  20. Meyer lemon marmalade with meyer lemon ice paired with Castello dei Rampolla. (This was a palate cleanser. Probably due to the amount of wine at this point, I remember almost nothing about it. But I did write down that the wine was from Tuscany)
  21. Beef with persimmon, wild onion, and miner’s lettuce paired with Vincotto (I have no idea what vincotto is. I wrote it down as the “grape” and I think it was the sauce rather than the wine, but not promises on that.  The beef dish had a very memorable fatty piece that was salty and awesome. Very rich and very, very good.)
  22. Cheese course paired with Ronchi di Cialla OR Veruzzo. (The Ronchi wine was desserty and sweet, very honey-like and with a really awesome flavor. I LOVED this wine. It was sweet without being too much and even our neighbor who was a self-proclaimed dessert wine hater liked this one. Then we also had a Verduzzo which was nice, but I do not recall which one actually went with this course. (WHOOPS) The cheese itself was a la tur cheese with yuzu and we were informed to “scoop it from the bottom.” I have very little recollection of what exactly it was, but I do remember enjoying it.)  To add some confusion to the whole which goes with what (silly drunk brain), we were then served a Yellow Tea (The tea was from China and was like green tea but they let the leaves oxidize more and then stop the oxidation process by cooking them in a wok,)
  23. Cara cara orange sherbert with rye berries and rye foam paired with a Moscato di asti.  (I loved the way the rye berries added a nice richness and crisp to the sherbert and the sparkling Moscato was a really like pair with it.)
  24. Sunchoke cream with sunchoke chips, apple ice, sunflower seed brittle powder with Alcyon Tannat Dessert Wine. (This was a fuckin’ awesome dessert. At this moment, Cat Stevens’ Wild World started playing. And it was just perfect for that moment. Our entire corner started singing along while everyone did their own version of the happy belly dance to this dessert and wine.  This was my favorite bite of the meal. Great way to end. And the Alcyon was from Uruguay. I really want to try this again!)
  25. Hemp Seed Macarons. (These had a slightly green taste that really made for an excellent last bite. And I just love me a good macaron!)

WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW! What a meal.  It was really, truly amazing.  And even though there were 25 courses, we had wrapped up in under 3 hours. Every bite was enjoyable and it was a great meal adventure.  The entire Cat Stevens album continued to play as we wrapped up, and it was like a nostalgic journey that a lot of the diners commented on enjoying.

We just revisited our Top 10 Noms of all time, and when we looked it all over, we slotted Blanca in at #5 (just barely below Blue Hill at Stone Barns and above Bottega in Napa Valley). For reference here is the Top 10 as of March 2013:

    1. Eleven Madison Park
    2. WD-50
    3. Colicchio and Sons
    4. Blue Hill at Stone Barns
    5. Blanca
    6. Bottega (Napa)
    7. Momofuku Ko
    8. Le Bernadin
    9. Daniel
    10. Ai Fiori

Even though we tried not to at first, the fact that we were pretty drunk by the end definitely made for the last few dishes being a wee bit foggy. But still great. The service was also really fantastic, and we especially admired the sommelier who had quite the amazing pairings and knowledge about each and every sip.

Total Nom Points: 9 out of 10

9 out of 10

 

And we really loved both of these wines and I would like to try them again in the very near future (maybe when a bit less inebriated):

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