Tag Archives: best restaurants

Top Noms of 2014

1 Jan

Every year, we compile our favorite meals of the previous 12 months.  (For previous years, check here: 2013201220112010, and 2009). It is always hard to choose the best, and this year especially so when 2013 ended with our number one meal of all time at Alinea in Chicago, and then 2014 started with the previous #1 (and still #1 in NYC), Eleven Madison Park for the second time.   But enough about previous tops, and onto the tops of 2014:

As for great food that weren’t specific restaurants, I had an incredible experience at the New York Magazine Taste Event, getting to sample a bite from some of the best restaurants around the city. My favorite recipe that I shared (and have now baked over and over again) was the Nutella Stuffed Salted Chocolate Cookies (note: I have since removed the caramels and find the recipe is perfect even without this extra indulgence).  And then my favorite day of the year is the day we went on a veritable treasure hunt around NYC to #followtherabbit to get free cronuts and cookie shots from Dominique Ansel in honor of his cookbook launch.  What an amazing time!

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As for our top 10 Restaurants of 2014…

#10: The NoMad Bar

We had a great meal at The NoMad (#5 on the Top Noms of 2013) and we were excited to see that they launched a slightly more casual (and very sexy) “Bar” version.  We have since been back a few times and each time we enjoy the food and the cocktails, which are very expensive but some of the best in the city. It’s hard to beat as a place to impress guests or a date.

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#9: Carbone

We had heard the rumbling about the new restaurant from Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi and Jeff Zalaznick, Carbone. The buzz about the Veal Parm was especially loud, referencing the ridiculous price ($54) and the equally ridiculous deliciousness.  The veal was certainly delicious, but it was actually the amazing pasta dishes that pushed this into the top 10.

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#8: Brunch at DBGB

We were surprised at how much we enjoyed brunch at DBGB, though I really shouldn’t have been since I have always been a big fan of David Boulud restaurants. We have enjoyed ourselves at many including Boulud Sud (#6 on the 2012 Top Noms List) Daniel (#3 on the 2011 Top Noms List), Cafe Boulud (#5 on the Top Restaurant Week list), and Bar Boulud (a favorite brunch spot).   Our brunch at DBGB was with a big group and everyone left raving about the food, and the French Toast was the best I’ve ever had.

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#7: Root & Bone Opening

We had a great time at the pop-up preview of Root & Bone in 2013 and then visited the new permanent location in the East Village during the first few weeks of opening.  It was opened by Top Chef alums Jeffrey McInnis and Janine Booth and brought us the fried chicken that no one can stop talking about. I loved the corn dish (which combined “Grilled Sweet Corn Cob… Husk and All” with cornbread butter, giant hominy, and popped corn) though I’ve heard that it’s not as consistent from other reviewers. I also adored the short rib meat loaf. I loved that the menu had a lot of memorable dishes that were a little bit different.

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#6: Bodega Negra at the Dream Hotel

Another surprising meal was at Bodega Negra in Chelsea.  Perhaps it’s because I don’t get to eat Mexican food very often due to my allergy, so this was novel.  But the dessert alone put this squarely in the top 10 and it was an incredibly memorable meal. (Video of the dessert’s metamorphosis here)

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#5: Decoy: Peking Duck Dinner

I love a Peking Duck dinner. Something about that crispy duck with all the fixins wrapped in the little pancakes just make me happy. But this dinner was pretty epic in that not only was the duck dinner included, but also 4 small plates, 2 main dishes, and 1 fried rice or side dish.  The grilled wagyu beef pieces are still a taste memory stuck on repeat in my brain and it’s a great meal to share with food loving friends.

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#4: all’onda

A restaurant I have recommended again and again is all’onda. Eater called it the biggest restaurant opening of 2014 and we could not disagree.  Each dish was very unique and had a special flare to it that everyone really enjoyed.  We loved the sea urchin pasta (which I think has gone off and on the menu a few times depending on availability) and I still think of the arancini balls with beautiful squid ink rice.

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#3: Sushi Nakazawa

What a surprise! Mike made an impressive choice for my surprise birthday dinner and our meal was fantastic from start to finish.  A whole lot of chef chosen sushi in the Omikase, with the uni that will forever leave me chasing that uni dragon.  Do yourself a favor and make a reservation, be sure to watch Jiro Dreams of Sushi before you go, and then visit this restaurant to taste what Chef Daisuke Nakazawa learned after a 10-year apprenticeship at one of the best sushi restaurants in Japan.

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#2: Per Se

After quite the exciting meal at The French Laundry during out honeymoon, it was hard to resist trying Per Se on our first wedding anniversary. I was excited just to be in this NYC institution, and I could not wait to wrap my tongue around the Oysters and Pearls dish again, a tiny bowl of heaven that is famous in both locations.  While still not as great as other restaurants we have loved, it was undeniable why this is commonly referred to as one of the best (and most special) restaurants in New York City. The meal was perfect (just like our French Laundry meal) but not quite as creative as some of our favorites.  Still #2 for the year!

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#1: Liquid Art House

The surprise of the year. I went to Boston on business but was able to spend my first night in the city with a good friend.  A quick search of top restaurants in the city near the Boston Back Bay station led me to Liquid Art House.  The space opened in May of this year and it was incredible and impressive with art hung like a gallery.  The food is also a work of art on each plate.  Usually you expect food that beautiful to be more aesthetic than substance, but the food absolutely, 100% delivered.  Each flavor was incredible and the ingredients were so fresh.  I was actually suffering extensively from morning sickness during this meal, but I managed to enjoy every single bite. I wish I had room for dessert, because I can only imagine what creations they came up with, but I left this meal in awe of how much I enjoyed it. I also just found out that Chef Stacy Cogswell from the current season of Top Chef (the Boston native) just came into the kitchen under Executive Chef Rachel Klein.  Since we do love our Top Cheftestant restaurants, I look forward even more to bringing Mike back to try this place as soon as we can make a trip back to Boston.

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Another incredible year of eats!  I cannot help but reflect back on how fortunate we are that we get to live this life.  We joke that our biggest fear for our baby is that he will not love food. But I have to think that can’t possibly be feasible with us as parents. We just love this way too much.

Thanks for another great year!

Onto the adventures of 2015.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Per Se: First Anniversary Celebration

16 Jun

It has been an incredible year.  1 year ago on June 15, I married the incredible Mr. Nom Nom with an incredible wedding in Maine, and then went on an incredible honeymoon that even made it into a magazine.  On our honeymoon, we went to The French Laundry, where we had an incredible, memorable meal (though slightly below expectation). It was still great enough, and epic enough, that we decided that for our first anniversary, there was only restaurant we could go… Per Se.

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Per Se is described as the “urban interpretation of The French Laundry” on their site, and is helmed by the same chef, Thomas Keller. Keller opened Per Se in 2004, about 10 years after The French Laundry, and it has long been on our grubbit-list.

We decided to save up and cap anniversary gifts at $20 to have a meal at the place that everyone said was the most famous in NYC.

So yesterday at noon, we sat down on the 4th floor of the Time Warner Center, looked out over Columbus Circle (and Columbus himself) and got ready to dine.

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The room is very reminiscent of The French Laundry with some similar touches, but it still a restaurant unto itself with very high ceilings and a bit more modern touches.

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Our waitress was nice enough to capture a shot of us at our table.

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And the restaurant, as perfect as French Laundry, even printed special menus wishing us a Happy 1st Anniversary.

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The format is similar, with a “Tasting of Vegetables” on one side…

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And the “Chef’s Tasting Menu” on the other side.  The 9 course full menu is $310, and this lunch menu has some additional options of a 7 course for $245 or a 5 course for $205.  We had been saving our pennies so we went for it and did the full menu.  There are also some supplements you can opt into, but we chose to stick to the regular menu. (For a fun infographic, check how how much you CAN spend at Per Se in case it’s not ridiculous enough…)

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Rather than go with a wine pairing, which would have broken the already decimated bank, we went for starter cocktails and then had a few glasses of wine throughout the meal. These were possibly the most expensive cocktails I’ve ever had ($25 a pop) but they were flipping fantastic.

Mike had the Charlie Hustle which was Basil Hayden Bourbon, Aperol & Vanilla-Infused Carpano Sweet Vermouth. It was perfectly balanced with all the right amounts of everything to create a manly, but not mannish, drink.

And I had the Long Weekend, which was made with Plantation “20th Anniversary” Rum & Strawberries. It exploded with delicious strawberry flavor.  It reminded me of a fresh strawberry popsicle from childhood.

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We began with an amuse bouche of miniature cheese stuffed puffs.  These were similar, if not the same as at French Laundry.  But they were much more memorable. The cheese was so creamy and it really popped.

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The salmon coronette was exactly was I remembered it from French Laundry.

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A mouthful of salty, crunchy, fishy deliciousness. Great balance of all textures and flavors.

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And then this spoon hit the table…

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… and I could feel my heart filling with anticipation as I knew what was coming next.

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The oysters and pearls. (Menu description: “Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar).

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This masterpiece bowl of awesome heaven defies all explanation.  How this can be so fulfilling and so flavorful and so exciting blows my mind.  Right now I am actually saddened by the fact that I do not know if I will ever be at either of these two restaurants ever again to have this dish again.  There are few dishes that sing like this sings.  It is obvious why this is so famous.

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But as quickly as it began, it was over.

But a parker house roll with two house butters were there to try their damnedest to fill the void.

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The first butter was salted and very similar (if not the same) as the French Laundry version.  The second butter was unsalted but it was an insanely buttery tasting butter.   Both very good and fun to taste the dichotomy of both versions.

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The next dish was the Salad of French Laundry Garden Radishes (menu description: Hawaiian hearts of peach palm, hass avocado, bing cherries, and green almonds).  This dish was so beautiful and so fresh.

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I do not love radishes, but this could have made me love them.  The sauces were so smooth and so flavorful, without taking away from the delicate tastes of the radishes.

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Breads were offered throughout the evening, and we enjoyed sampling each of them.  My favorite of the great batch was the pretzel. This is what pretzels should taste like. Why people make imitations that taste anything less than this is a crime against pretzels.

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Our next dish was “Confit” of Dover Sole (menu description: Sweet carrots, morel mushroom “tempura,” wild asparagus and melted green garlic).  The sauce was a great foil for the fish, which was slightly sweet.

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I really enjoyed the mushroom “tempura”  which added a hearty and earthy quality to the dish.

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Next up was the Jade Tiger Abalone (menu description: Grilled corn shoots, Hakurei turnips, Surinam Cherries, and Piedmont hazelnuts).  I have never had abalone to my recollection, but this sea snail didn’t tickle me as much as I was hoping.  It was good, but I just would much rather a scallop.

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That said, this was executed incredibly well, with a bit of crisp sear on the top and a lovely, earthy sauce.

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Our next dish went into the meat world and was a Degustation of Four Story Hill Farm’s Suckling Pig (menu description: Marinated tomatoes, Lamborn pea tendrils, haricot verts, and “Sauce Gribiche”).

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I cannot remember the details of how each was prepared, but all bites were packed with flavor and had all the right balances or acids, greens, sauces, and earthiness.  And the tomatoes on the plate were somehow the sweetest tomatoes I’ve ever had.  I have been sorely disappointed by pretty much every tomato I’ve had in recent years, but these were incredible.

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Our last meat was Elysian Field Farm’s “Carré D’Agneau” (menu description: “Petit Salé,” English peas, romaine lettuce, spring onions, and “Paloise Gastrique”)

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The plate was beautifully arranged and the peas, onions, and sauce were so bright and so spring.  With the lamb I was wondering if flowers were going to start sprouting from our table.

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The char and the salt on the meat brought out all the flavors.

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This was the most tenderly flavored lamb I’ve ever tasted.  It was distinctly lamby without being at all gamey.

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As a segue into dessert, the cheese course was Consider Bardwell Farm’s “Pawlet” (menu description: Black truffle shortbread, granny smith apples, celery branch and Belgian endive).

This cheese was so good that I actually looked up the farm and where to get it (Murray’s Cheese!)

The short bread was so perfectly textured and the cheese with the apple… gosh… it was just so good.

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Onto the desserts!

This is where the menu gets low on the details. It just says “Assortment of Desserts” with the description of Fruit, Ice Cream, Chocolate, and Candies. So apologies on the lack of details in my memory.

This was a rhubarb and strawberry something or other with some short bread pieces. It was fresh and creamy and lovingly balanced with textures and flavors with a hint of tart.

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Then we had an almond ice cream with hazelnut and pistachio.  Again… a simply perfect balance of texture and flavor.  Refreshing and nutty.

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Last “dessert on a plate” (great description from the waitress that made me laugh) as their take on an “After Eight.” I love mint and chocolate, and especially After Eights, so I really enjoyed this rich, but balanced dessert.  Mike, who doesn’t like chocolate with mint at all, even gobbled it all up.

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We then received a very sweet anniversary special treat.  This stunning piece of art was entirely edible.

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And it was as delicately delicious as it was delicately beautiful. What a treat!

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But the gifts just kept on coming.

Next up was a box of homemade candies.  He described each one and then made us choose. I chose a bourbon pecan milk chocolate while Mike went with an “Arnold Palmer” (ice team and lemonade) white chocolate.  (I was very upset to not try the burnt honey one, especially after re-reading my French Laundry review and realizing that their burnt honey ice cream one of my favorite parts of the meal).  But they were both really fantastic.  I was really impressed at how much the Arnold Palmer tasted like tea and lemon.

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We then received a “tower” that we assumed was to end the meal.

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Lovely truffles on the bottom (one of the flavors was with beer)

 

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Tender macarons in the middle (I think one was Earl Grey flavored)

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And then caramels and nougat on top.

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But oh no… we were not done…

Similar to how we ended our meal at French Laundry, we ended with fresh, warm donut holes and a “cappuccino semifredo” which looked like cappuccino but was made from a mousse with foam on top.

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Served with fresh cherries.

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We were so stuffed so I was thrilled when our waitress said she could pack up the rest of the tower to go (we had it for dinner!)

Then we were given a take-home of shortbread chocolate sandwiches.  It is now the day after and I just had one.  Sheesh. Bang. Zoom.  How are cookies that good? The filling is soft and like a chocolate cloud with perfectly soft yet firm short bread.  Awesome.  A great flashback to every great flavor from yesterday.

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What a meal!  This was very reminiscent of our meal at French Laundry but it was actually just a little bit better. Each dish was similar in format and composition, with a similar order of the full meal (including the farm salad followed by a fish followed by a seafood followed by a pork followed by a lamb dish), but each component of Per Se sang just a little bit better. It felt more in tune. Maybe this is the final nail in the coffin about my preference for the East Coast over the West Coast, but I’m curious how others who have had the incredibly pleasure of eating at both would compare the two.

Overall, our meal was just so phenomenal. As perfect as French Laundry and just a hair more delicious.

Worth it? Absolutely not if you have any practicality in your body whatsoever. But I do not when it comes to food.  Especially celebratory food.  I don’t have fancy cars or fancy clothes. I don’t go to concerts or fly in first class.  I eat like this. And I love it.

Total Nom Points: 9 out of 10 (really more like a 9.2 to give it a bit of an edge over our meal at The French Laundry)

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New Restaurant Opening: all’onda

9 Feb

Today is the 5th anniversary of NYC Nom Nom!  It has been a great 5 years. Thanks for reading!  Now onto the review…

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Mike got to talking with his foodie coworker about new restaurant openings. They were excited about all’onda, called the “biggest opening of ’14” by Eater.  It is near Union Square and is from Chef Chris Jaeckle and Restaurateur Chris Cannon.  Mike made the reservation on the day it opened in early January and the first Saturday reservation he could get was for February 8, a month later.

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When we arrived, roughly 45 minutes before our reservation to grab an early drink, we were greeted by some bad news: they didn’t have our reservation.  Mike had tried to make the reservation originally online, but it wasn’t working, so he called.  But alas, they had no record of it.  The manager came up to our group and very nicely and genuinely apologized, explaining that they first took reservations on paper and it appears that a number of them had been lost. He mentioned that this was not the first time he was making that speech, but that there was a table right near the bar where we could have the full menu. He said if something opened up upstairs, we would have first dibs, and he would buy us our first round of drinks.

Mistakes happen, but it’s truly about how someone handles it. This manager handled it beautifully and humbly, making us feel like honored guests, and it left us all with a very good feeling even though it wasn’t the best situation.

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We were bummed, but we agreed to sit downstairs and hope, while we peered upstairs with a ping of jealousy.

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The bar does open right up to the kitchen, however, which is always fun to steal a glance of.

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We ordered rinks, including this lovely cocktail called Old Sal, which was made with Rittenhouse rye, rosemary infused cocchi americano, and cynar. It was very nicely mixed and I enjoyed the sip I tried.

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I wound up ordering a phenomenal glass of wine: a 2009 Bianco di Custoza Superiore Monte Del Fra Veneto, described as 55 yr old vines, Garganega, Trebbiano etc. on limestone, complex mineral character, great value.  Great value it was. Even at $14 for the glass, it tasted like a very expensive wine and I enjoyed drinking it all evening. The wine list really looked like a piece of paper made of wood.

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And then just as we were resigned to the slightly chilly bar table near the door, we got some good news. A table had opened up, and we got to go upstairs.

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They served lovely, crusty bread (that we kept refilling to dip in the great sauces all night) and a very thin cracker-like bread that had great flavor.

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We started with the big recommendation: Arancini (fried risotto balls) with squid ink and sea urchin.

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The squid ink inside was so dark, and so beautiful, it looked like magic inside.

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A beautiful, delicious, luxurious black magic.  The slightly salty, marine-tasting, soft uni on top perfectly complimented the crunch on the arancini which gave way to a very smooth risotto which had just the slightest al dente texture.  Very, very nice start to the meal.

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We decided to split a whole bunch of dishes amongst the 4 of us, including 3 of the homemade pastas.

First, a tortellini in parmesan dashi, tomato oil, and porcini.  We were surprised to see it came in a broth, but what a broth it was! The tortellini themselves were fine, but it was the broth that really made this dish stand out. It was incredibly umami, with an earthy, rich flavor that we kept getting more and more bread to sop it all up.

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We also tried the bucatini with smoked uni. It was supposed to come with spicy breadcrumbs, but due to my allergy, I couldn’t have that, so they did without. And you know what? I didn’t miss it at all. I am sure a little crunch on top would have been lovely, but I absolutely moaned as I ate this dish.  The bucatini (hollow spaghetti) was perfectly cooked and the uni created such a creamy and rich sauce that had a true softness of flavor that was truly exquisite.  It was like a Japanese spin on carbonara. My favorite of the pastas.

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Our third pasta dish was a lumache with aged duck ragu, treviso, and chocolate.  This was everyone else’s favorite, and it was obvious why. Each delicate piece of duck that was in the ragu just punched you in the tongue with flavor.

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The chocolate is the brown sprinkled around the plate in this second picture.  There was a rich and earthy nature to this dish and while you didn’t taste the chocolate directly, it complimented the dish beautifully.

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For our entrees, we tried seafood, beef, and poultry.

First, the skate, which was veal glazed with beets and semolina dumpling.  There was a touch of sweetness to the masterfully cooked skate, and the components around the skate added color, texture, and flavor without taking away from the delicate skate.

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I am still not sure what the veal glaze was, but the entire dish was composed very well.

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The New York Strip was with parmesan potatoes, mustard greens, and fonduta. The potatoes had a great outer crisp that gave way to a very tender and flavorful potato with a great parmesan flavor. The steak was cooked beautifully and had just the right amount of flake salt. But I was especially impressed with the mustard greens. They were so flavorful and a perfect texture for a green leaf.  I was amused as I sampled all the bites around the table because I absolutely LOVE steak, but this was my least favorite part of the meal, not because it was bad, but just because everything else was so original and it stood out so much that it was hard to compare to perfectly cooked beef.

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We also tried the guinea hen with parsnip, shio kombu, and foie gras sugo.

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I was so impressed with this dish. The skin was perfectly crispy and the meat tasted so rich. I loved the parsnip puree and all the lovely jus.

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We also got two sides, including the brussels sprouts with cider vinegar, honey, curry, and pistachios. We got it without the pistachios (and possibly the curry, unless it was very well hidden) because they included peppers (which I’m allergic to), but I can’t imagine this being any better.  They were so perfectly cooked with a crispy char and a delicate sweetness.

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Our other side was polenta with miso-cured egg yolk and wild mushrooms. Everything about this was awesome.  Rich and earthy and awesome.  I was with 3 self-proclaimed polenta haters, and every one of them loved this dish.

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There was a very nice dessert wine list and I really loved my glass, nv Arneis Passito “Renesium” Malvira.

For dessert, we tried the olive oil cake with ricotta gelato, lemon, and basil.  The cake was so moist and flavorful, and the ricotta  ever so slightly sour but creamy and delightful, with (what I think were) tapioca pearls that resembled caviar.  A really great dessert.

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We also tried the chocolate tart with amaretto and soy gelato.  I love love love love LOVED this dessert.  The chocolate was so rich and so smooth. Impossibly smooth. And that soy gelato (I think it was soy sauce gelato) had an umami saltiness that I just could not get enough of.

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Wow.  An incredible meal from start to finish.  It’s a bit hard to describe, but the closest I can come is to say that it was like Italian ingredients made with an Asian flare using a lot of great seafood.  Each dish tasted differently from anything I had ever had before.  A slight, indescribable twist on a flavor or a combination of ingredients that I had never tried before.  Each dish stood on its own, but if I had to make you the perfect meal, I would go with the arancini, lumache (since it was the crowd favorite), the guinea hen, and the chocolate tart.  But then again, we saw the short ribs (for two) go by a few times and each time we were jealous. First, it was huge (one of our dining companions compared it to a “clog,” yes, a giant shoe) and second, the smell wafted through the restaurant like a tease.

Next time.

Call now and get a reservation, and maybe call up to check to make sure they have it the day before.

Total Nom Points: 8.5 out of 10

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